Jump to content
SAU Community

200SX (S14) or R32 GTS-T


Recommended Posts

Hey guyz

Im currently 19 and

Well i really want an R32 GTS-T however i know coz its imported and all that insurance is a killa

However i kinda like the 200sx (s14) and i know there not an imported model so would it make insurance a little cheaper??

Would anybody know??

Ps Which car would u recommend?? S14 or R32

Thanks

Joe!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Whatever you do... Don't buy a SKYLINE!!!!!!!!!

j/k

series 2 looks more agressive, i think thats about it. It came in 97 and 98. Personally i like the series 1.

The r32's a mad car, fun to drive, great on boost, but sluggish off boost. S14 is a bit better off boost, but it's more of a street car in that it lacks the extra sporty benefits of the r32 like stock boost and oil pressure guage, less adjustability in the seats and steering column, and a different suspension setup.

both good cars, S14 is newer, slightly safer option with service books, parts, etc..

Skylines go hard

Link to comment
Share on other sites

R32 is more of a sports car, also a 6 cycl, so sounds nice are tough. I havent driven a stock one tho.

S14 is an aussie made car, that surprises a few people. Have a beautiful exhaust note on boost. The luxury model has a sunroof and airbag(s?)

I believe insurance will be the same for both cars, coz they are both single turbo coupes.

Id take the R32, or if not id take a S14a, they are worth saving a little bit longer for!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Flaps, not sure where you got that info from, but if it is correct, that did suprise me, got any links to back it up???

This may also suprise a few people.. Insurance on a R32 GTS-t about $2400 at 30% NCB through Justcar. Insurance on S14 200sx ~$4000 at 30% NCB through Justcar. I can't explain it, but going by that, your theory on insurance goes out the window ;) Considering the S14 costs ~$18k and the R32 ~$14k i know which one I would want... but the S14 is dead sexy and the SR20DET is a grat engine too.

In the end, it's personal choice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To add: I don't think the S14 is an australian made car... It is a silvia at heart, rebadged 200sx, and in Japan came in 3 variations J's Q's and K's just like the S13. Australia had 3 models also, however unlike the JDM, all ours were turbo. Base model was Limited, Sports model had a few things like A/C and a rear spoiler, and the Luxury model came with a sunroof etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had an s14a limited and it was a great car. Came standard with a/c too. The sports had a body kit, and the luxury the sunroof. S14 had climate control which was later taken off the 200's for cost reasons.

Either car will go hard.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my ex-gf had a stock series 2 200sx with the sharper headlights, i think it is a "1997 special edition", it has no sunroof but has twin airbags. she got it last year for 22 grand, personally i thought she was ripped off. who cares? not my money! ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well ive had s 32 skylines and just bought a series 2 s14 (97 with the differant headlights, taillights and badge) the s14 seems more fun to drive at this stage with much the same power as my first 32. Australian made??? dont think so. Also the cops dont seem to look at the s14 as much as the skyline as they were AUSTRALIAN DELIVERED, not ausie made. Insurance IS cheeper and so is rego.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, I need to get this HKS SLD attached to my stock ECU because I've now got the German autobahn and faster European circuits to contend with.  The car is a manual 2dr ER34 with an AT ECU and I've realised the AT ECU has two pins for speed sensor signals: Pin 29: Vehicle speed sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 2) Pin *58: Output shaft rotation sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 1) - *RB25DET A/T model only Before I go butchering this harness, is anyone sure of which pin is the correct one for signal adjustment? The attached document from HKS indicates pin 29 but I found this situation mentioned in the following thread on a different forum (R34 GTT Auto Trans Speed Cut Problem | Zerotohundred) mentioning pin 58 needing to be altered by member zephuros, albeit it seems to be for an RSM-GP and the info appears to be old.  R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-2.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-3.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-1.pdf HKS SLD Vehicle Pin out P59-P70 ER34-pages.pdf
    • Embrace the freedom of casual encounters on the best dating app in town! Verified Maidens Superlative Сasual Dating
    • Slimline sub on the rear parcel shelf is doable. Pioneer TS-WX140DA is only 70mm high.   
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
×
×
  • Create New...