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i had more of a look at the manifold and noticed it has some extra welding in some places so not sure if it has been modified in any way.

looking at the graph the boost drop is around 1.2psi or so.. i mean is that a bad drop in boost compared to what others have seen out there?

and when you say it could be a badly setup boost controller is this caused by long vacuum lines?

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1psi isnt bad at all.

Our race car engine drops about 4psi after 4800.

Its all easily fixed by having a good electronic boost controller that is configured to help maintain the desired boost pressure which can be a little fiddly to setup properly at times. So long as the mechanical side is spec'd and operating correctly then there is no reason it shouldnt be maintaining target pressure.

  • 1 month later...

hey guys,

i got the motor back together and the car is now at JEM getting a E85 tune.

what ive done is;

replaced crank and bearings (ACL's)

balanced balancer, crank, flywheel, pressure plate

Ross harmonic balancer

checked head stud tensions

new timing pulley

new intake gasket

new turbo manifold gasket

New HKS intake camshaft

Used VCT intake cam gear

decat pipe

external to atmosphere

E boost2 controller

NPC custom single plate clutch

shortened intercooler pipes

relocated blow off valve

new tensionors timing belt

Id1000cc injectors

2x bosch 044 fuel pumps

4 litre surge tank

Dash 8 fuel supply line

let see what this little GT35R with the 0.82 hotside can pump out on E85..

It's most likely due to 250rpm increments it's looks more wavey than normal 500rpm increment

nah mine plots every 50rpm and that sine type wave is an issue with boost controller or boost control plumbing to gate. Blitz boost controolers do that if it is just clipping the overboost setting.

nah mine plots every 50rpm and that sine type wave is an issue with boost controller or boost control plumbing to gate. Blitz boost controolers do that if it is just clipping the overboost setting.

generally spikes in solenoid duty cycle cause it..

  • 2 weeks later...

after weeks sitting in there shop now they tell me the head needs to come off to be line honed..

surely they could see on the old cam shaft was damaged when they first took it out over a week ago.......

anyways im not happy at the moment

whoever built this motor has put a bearing at the front on the inlet camshaft, which the clearances where not 100% correct & the VCT gear was loose on the camshaft dowe also.

so we put a HKS drop in camshaft on the intake side and new VCT gear, we had the NEW camshaft machined to suit the front bearing modification that was done.

as they were installing new camshaft they noticed that the camshaft was tight around cap number 3 and said it needs to be line honed which means head offf :(

i went down there today straight from work and im hoping a nice polish on the cam cap etc should loosing it up enough to get the correct clearances.

dont wanna sound like a noob but what clearances are recommended just so i can double check there work?

  • 2 months later...

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