Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I'm considering trading up my S13 NA for a R32 NA, The thing is it's auto...

I'm had a 5 min look through the forums and couldn't really find what I'm after so here it goes;

Costage round abouts?

What's involved?

Would you stick a Rb20 gear box or 25 in?

Thanks, no trolls either don't really know anything about drivetrain. :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380889-r32-manual-conversion/
Share on other sites

Wouldn't recommend an RB25DET box for an RB20 NA, too big, heavy and strong for the almost zero torque levels that you can throw at it. Too expensive too. An RB25DE box is essentially the same thing as an RB20DET box, just slightly different ratios. Either would be fine. Either should only be about $500.

You will also need a flywheel. If you get one with the box, so much the better. Otherwise they are cheap enough secondhand, but you could also buy a brand new lighter one for a few hundred.

Clutch - doesn't need to be much. A standard one will do the job. Cheap enough.

Gearbox crossmember and mount needed.

I think you need a different front half of tailshaft.

You will need the pedal box so you can hang the clutch pedal. You'll obviously also need the clutch master, clutch slave and some pipework. This stuff is best gotten from a wreck unless you want to make the lines up new. Make sure that you get the right slave to suit the gearbox that you buy. There are differences.

You also should get the driver's side engine bay loom from a manual. Will make it much easier to put it all together than trying to mod the auto loom.

But, I must say, that all this adds up to far more $$ than I would ever recommend that anyone spend on an NA R32. Seems like a massive waste of cash, when you can buy a manual turbo R32 for somewhat less than $10k most days of the week. Even if you do it with a turbo gearbox with the later idea of putting a turbo engine in, you need to throw so much more money at it (brakes, hubs, diff, fuel pump, intercooler and pipework, etc etc etc) that you would have been far better off just buying a turbo in the first place. I know you're not asking about turboing anything, but it's a logical path to want to follow (just not logical to do).

Wouldn't recommend an RB25DET box for an RB20 NA, too big, heavy and strong for the almost zero torque levels that you can throw at it. Too expensive too. An RB25DE box is essentially the same thing as an RB20DET box, just slightly different ratios. Either would be fine. Either should only be about $500.

You will also need a flywheel. If you get one with the box, so much the better. Otherwise they are cheap enough secondhand, but you could also buy a brand new lighter one for a few hundred.

Clutch - doesn't need to be much. A standard one will do the job. Cheap enough.

Gearbox crossmember and mount needed.

I think you need a different front half of tailshaft.

You will need the pedal box so you can hang the clutch pedal. You'll obviously also need the clutch master, clutch slave and some pipework. This stuff is best gotten from a wreck unless you want to make the lines up new. Make sure that you get the right slave to suit the gearbox that you buy. There are differences.

You also should get the driver's side engine bay loom from a manual. Will make it much easier to put it all together than trying to mod the auto loom.

But, I must say, that all this adds up to far more $ than I would ever recommend that anyone spend on an NA R32. Seems like a massive waste of cash, when you can buy a manual turbo R32 for somewhat less than $10k most days of the week. Even if you do it with a turbo gearbox with the later idea of putting a turbo engine in, you need to throw so much more money at it (brakes, hubs, diff, fuel pump, intercooler and pipework, etc etc etc) that you would have been far better off just buying a turbo in the first place. I know you're not asking about turboing anything, but it's a logical path to want to follow (just not logical to do).

Okay, You gave me all the info i needed, thank you kindly. I really don't want an auto car that's all.

So basically, in the end, Unless it's my pride and joy, It's not worth converting? I think i'll give it a miss then but will find out prices, once again thanks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...