Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

This weekend I want to install my reverse camera to the M35. Im going to connect it into the av input on the Commsman tv tuner but wanted to know the best way to switch to the av input when I select reverse. I read somewhere about the C1 terminal inside the jdm tuner but not sure how it needs to be wired and exactly how it works.

I want the reverse camera to automatically be viewed on the factory screen when ever reverse is selected and then back to what the last input was. Is this possible and if so how do I need to wire it all up?

Thanks guys

Edited by slippylotion

Follow these steps:

1. connect the camera power to the reverse lights

2. run the 12V from the reverse lights to a relay (other side to earth)

3. run the 12V from the reverse lights to the yellow wire on the tuner power connector

4. the switched circuit of the relay has an earth one side & the other side is soldered onto C1 terminal inside the OEM tuner

When you select reverse the lights power up the camera, switch the tuner to the aux input (camera) & activate the relay to put an earth on the contact to immediately switch your screen to display the reverse camera picture. Easy!

But will that force the screen to show that input when I select reverse and not have to flick another switch to then revert back to previous input?

Even if Im listening to a cd will it automatically switch and show up on the screen then revert back to cd without me selecting anything?

No it wont force the screen

If your in tv mode on the screen you wont need to press anything. Shorting the C1 to ground does the same thing as pressing the TV button on the dash. You will need the C1 and relay if you want it fully automated. I just leave mine in TV mode

Its a bitch thats why I would go wireless. I went under the roof trim to get into the rubber tube to the tailgate then under the rubber that goes around rear window there is a small gap under neath it. Then down to the side then your in.

Hey Brad

Yeah I can see now that wireless would have better, just didn't know its all sealed up pinch.gif

I pulled all the trims off and can get to the wiring loom grommets going into the top of the hatch. I just can't work out how to chase the wires down that wiring grommet into the frame and down behind the number plate.

I just need to feed 1 x video RCA

Edited by slippylotion

To get to the number plate take out one of the number plate lights and file a slot in one corner near the back and put back in to see if there is enough room for the thin wire to go through(not RCA size) If you cant see through the hole then file a bit more out.

Poke a piece of wire through with the end turned over and pinched. So there is no sharp edges then poke it through the rubber and tape the rca to it. Put lots of tape to taper the plug down to wire size. Then lube up and wiggle it through. I think I came out the side of tube at the end and then went around the rubber seal

There is a small gap under the rubber boot seal between the outside body and the trim

Ill have a look if your still stuck.

Putting the camera above the number plate is still the best spot. I couldnt think of anywhere else on the back to go.

Cheers Brad, Ill have a crack tomorrow and hope for the best.

I mounted the camera this arvo, came out really good.

Yeah I was going to grab that +12v reverse light wire from where it comes back into the cabin under the head lining.

Edited by slippylotion

Cheers Brad, Ill have a crack tomorrow and hope for the best.

I mounted the camera this arvo, came out really good.

Yeah I was going to grab that +12v reverse light wire from where it comes back into the cabin under the head lining.

What was the camera that you used designed for? (what car model)

Cheers

ANdy

Its for an X trail. I made a 1.6mm thick ally plate the same size as the factory number plate light and fit the camera into that. Nice and easy, took about 15mins to make it.

Cool, Thanks.

After all that I hope you have a NTSC camera. Have you tried everything first?

Yeah I was on to that when I bought it. Its the NTSC version, sell both NTSC and PAL, you tell them what you want. I hooked it up when I got it for a quick test and works fine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • how do you know voltage is fine?  quick easy test is connect DMM up and put it on max/min mode, remove fuel pump fuse, crank car for 3-5s, go check min voltage You'd be surprised how many "healthy" batteries are showing under 10v during this test in cold weather. 
    • Not properly. You need to be able to dissipate 100 amps or so to doing it meaningfully. You can do it indirectly by watching to see how far the voltage falls during cranking. Unplug the coils or something else to prevent it from starting so you can get a good couple or three chugs. It also helps if you have the multimeter set up reading before you start, and that it has max/min functions. So you can catch the real minimum without having to watch the screen, which often doesn't update fast enough to show the real max/min in dynamic situations. Or use a digital oscilloscope, which can be obtained for <<$100 from Aliexpress (although I'd argue for paying up to ~$200 for a nicer one). A >4 yr old battery will very likely be well down the path to the knackery. Many only last 5-6 years these days. The cold weather lately will definitely make it worse.
    • Hmmm, what do you mean by getting weaker? And where did you get that test done? I've been wondering about my battery because the cold starts crank super slowly. The voltage is fine. Not sure if cranking amps can be checked at home. Battery is 4+ years old.
    • No. The simplest wastegate hookup, with no solenoid or other form of "boost control" (ie, control over your boost control, if you know what I mean) is a single hose, direct from the turbo outlet/hot pipe, straight and only to the wastegate actuator. It is that pressure signal that drives the wastegate to open, providing the boost control (and by "boost control" here, I mean, limiting how high it can go, which is essentially the spring pressure of the actuator). You only end up with tee pieces and alternate flow paths once you start adding things to the boost control system to allow you to determine how much of that boost signal makes it to the actuator. There are so many ways to do that that there is no single way to run the hoses and tees and the like. If you have a stock boost solenoid, then all it does is either allow all the boost signal to go to the actuator, or open up to allow some of it to bleed off. There needs to be a restriction in that bleeder to allow only a small amount to bleed off. And in a stock system, that would then be plumbed back to the turbo inlet (for "emissions control" reasons). That is actually what that nipple on your BOV return pipe could/would be for. If you have an aftermarket boost controller and solenoid, then the above is mostly true, but there is no need for a restrictor in the bleed, because the solenoid is pulse width modulated to create a variable bleed off. The air that escapes from the bleed can either be vented, or also returned to the turbo inlet. For emissions reasons it should be returned to inlet, but the amount of air being vented is so small that it really doesn't matter (either from an emissions perspective, or from an air-fuel ratio affecting perspective).
    • And other times you just need to go buy bigger injectors?
×
×
  • Create New...