Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok here is the problems, turbo is a hypergear atr43 ss-1

Boost spike to 22psi then falls straight off to 14psi

80% of the time it only gets to 16/17psi

Has 500rpm lag over most other identical turbos

Only made 306hp.

Attempted fixes.

Removed air box

Tried pod filter

Tried different intercooler

Removed exhaust

Tried different exhaust

Pressure tested the whole system

Removed boost control

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381350-thread-for-my-car-problems/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 886
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

To add insult to injury. I got out accelerated by an xr6 :'(

My setup is as follows. K&N panel filter-z32-3"metal intake-turbo-jjr bellouth dump-gutted cat-hks hi power cat back-jjr return flow intercooler-turbosmart type 3 plum back-Nissan 350z 450cc injectors-walbro gss341-nistune

Notes on setup are a little disjointed.

Gearbox - auto or manual?

Boost control - straight feed to actuator now? Previously? And what difference observed?

Actuator - what pressure is it rated at? Is it set up ok? What pressure does the valve crack off its seat?

Boost delivery - do you have a dyno sheet with boost overlay? Saying it's 500rpm more laggy than other similar setups doesn't give a great insight into things, graph tells a whole lot more.

Dyno sheet - please upload one

looks like a very weak actuator, you say its rated at 18psi yet your boost is dropping off to 14psi? didnt think you can run lower boost than your actuator is rated at..

The actuator should be plumbed in off the turbo outlet, so it will hold x amount of psi at the turbo outlet. Theoretically that number should be the same as the pressure in your manifold, but only if everything else is working properly; boost leaks, pressure drop, restrictions, etc. will affect it.

He didn't tell me what afr he tuned to (annoyed me when I was driving home and realized) and I do have a torque graph, il put it up in a minute. He said he couldn't get it to hold full boost, he tightened the actuator adjustment and turned the boost control up. The actuator is plumbed into the fitting that used to go to the air con compressor solenoid?switch?

Only boost leak is through my open air tappet cover breather, holds 30psi if I put my finger in it.

i should also point out, my car makes 22 psi but doesnt feel like it makes power until it drops below 18/19, like kind of has that vvti+l feel after that.

Edited by lilcrash

if you put your finger in the cam cover breather it boosts to 30psi????

sounds like you have a strange boost leak...

maybe you should have the breathers plumbed up right and find your boost leak...? just a thought.whistling.gif

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...