Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Crans - the strange part is even if I don't have the afm connected to the intake just plugged in electronically it still misses, il try to resolder it tonight. Hopefully it works.

I installed my catch can today so hopefully that's one problem fixed

  • Replies 886
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The catch can is hooked into the intake. Don't think it's advisable to just let it drop on the road.

It actually runs very very well, if that's limp mode I don't want to fix it. Then my wife's car will deffinately be quicker then mine.

Ok so how many people reading my thread have hypergear turbos? How many psi does your turbo loose from peak to redline? From what I have read hypergear turbos are supposed to have a boost creep behavior not a boost bleed off behavior. Am I just over thinking it?

You need to sort out all of your other issues before you start asking these kinds of questions. When it's all fixed and tuned (with new actuator ) these questions can be accurately answered.

This.

I hold 19psi rock solid from 3500ish to redline. Creeps a little bit to about 19.5 at around 5000rpm. But until you've sorted out all your other issues, forget about comparing your setup to others.

Yours is losing too much boost. Your losing around 8psi from memory, too much.

5psi would be the maximum I would expect if I was running 22/23.. I wouldnt want it to drop under 17psi by redline.

With the old actuator I was dropping from 20 to 14, new actuator I'm dropping from 25 to 20.

All my issues are resolved apart from the boost drop, but I don't think that is fixable, I'm planning on getting it tuned to suit the current boost curve and see what happens. Was just curious how much boost everyone else is loosing.

I now have 3 actuators. 7psi creep up to 16psi, 22psi drop to 14psi and 25psi drop to 20psi

There is an allen key near the WG flapper.

That adjusts the WG creep... Ask Stao for a 101 tut on using it. With everything else uve tried I doubt you will finally blow it doing this one.

i'll be back up in qld by the end of the week

i can come look at it all for you

do you still have the stock actuator? from what i can gather hypergear's housings are a little longer than stock, i've been thinking about cutting the actuator rod, tapping both ends and putting a long "nut" in between the cut pieces, a bit like a hks actuator

it seems that hypergear's actuators are a bit hit and miss, but 99% of stock ones work fine, but have weaker springs

you could also do that to an rb20 one (10psi spring)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't like "actual computers" for in car use. They take time to boot up, have OS annoyances, and so on. Arduinos etc are ready to go a few seconds after power on, don't mind being agressively powere cycled, because everything is non-volatile, don't mind being shaken and stirred.
    • As Fred would tell us, it's all about interpreting the rules. It's not a water sprayer, it's a water mister... But everything else you've said, 100%! Even a raspberry Pi would be great, use HDMI out for a display, and add a raspberry Pi CANBus hat to read values out from the ECU.
    • Being a race car, and being in the era of the Arduino, one would think it would take little effort to build a controller to do the spraying based on a real physical measurment. Waaaaay back in the dim dark AS days, JE "designed" (as in, he had help) a microcontroller based intercooler spray system. It watched the difference between a temp sensor stuck on the core and one in the free air in front of the cooler, and if the temperature difference exceeded a (settable) threshold, it would activate the sprays. Thus, it only ran water when there was an actual need for water. If you stop to think about the actual physical things that are going on in that stack of coolers, there's probably at least a couple of triggering conditions one could come up with, and one could probably even run one pump with more than one solenoid valve, to allow water to be placed where it is needed, or at all points at once (if it is needed at all points). We're in the age of science baby. But.... I suspect that intercooler water sprays are on the forbidden list in most circuit classes, no? So only good for Targa type stuff?
    • I'll just leave this with, holy shit, those cars at work are awesome, and this will look wicked!
    • Could you modify this duct so instead it pushes the extra air through the radiator too and not down and out? For temps, I know it's not the greatest idea, but as a bit of a last resort, you could use a very intermittent misting spray onto the front of the coolers/rad. You don't want to be soaking them such that water is dripping off, but a small most on/off so that the water evaporates. That point of it constantly evaporating, rather than being soaked in water, will pull a LOT of heat out of the cooler. I'm literally thinking just the little mist sprayers for a garden from Bunnings. Being in a low humidity climate it will help even more! The other trick if you want to be ghetto is some shade cloth hung in the opening, and keep it wet. Pretty much now it's acting like an evap cooler on a house, but cooling the air you need to use to cool the radiator...   On a topic to think about too though, when air enters through the bumper, is it all nicely ducted from the edges of that opening back at a nice angle, or is it like most cars, and the edge of the opening just stops, and suddenly it's wayyy wider behind that? If it does the later, get it shrouded out at nice angles. When that opening changes too rapidly, it can actually cause a high pressure zone between the front bar and radiator, and limit air flow into that area, which means less air for cooling, as it effectively stalls the air, AND adds to drag...
×
×
  • Create New...