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Crans - the strange part is even if I don't have the afm connected to the intake just plugged in electronically it still misses, il try to resolder it tonight. Hopefully it works.

I installed my catch can today so hopefully that's one problem fixed

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The catch can is hooked into the intake. Don't think it's advisable to just let it drop on the road.

It actually runs very very well, if that's limp mode I don't want to fix it. Then my wife's car will deffinately be quicker then mine.

Ok so how many people reading my thread have hypergear turbos? How many psi does your turbo loose from peak to redline? From what I have read hypergear turbos are supposed to have a boost creep behavior not a boost bleed off behavior. Am I just over thinking it?

You need to sort out all of your other issues before you start asking these kinds of questions. When it's all fixed and tuned (with new actuator ) these questions can be accurately answered.

This.

I hold 19psi rock solid from 3500ish to redline. Creeps a little bit to about 19.5 at around 5000rpm. But until you've sorted out all your other issues, forget about comparing your setup to others.

Yours is losing too much boost. Your losing around 8psi from memory, too much.

5psi would be the maximum I would expect if I was running 22/23.. I wouldnt want it to drop under 17psi by redline.

With the old actuator I was dropping from 20 to 14, new actuator I'm dropping from 25 to 20.

All my issues are resolved apart from the boost drop, but I don't think that is fixable, I'm planning on getting it tuned to suit the current boost curve and see what happens. Was just curious how much boost everyone else is loosing.

I now have 3 actuators. 7psi creep up to 16psi, 22psi drop to 14psi and 25psi drop to 20psi

There is an allen key near the WG flapper.

That adjusts the WG creep... Ask Stao for a 101 tut on using it. With everything else uve tried I doubt you will finally blow it doing this one.

i'll be back up in qld by the end of the week

i can come look at it all for you

do you still have the stock actuator? from what i can gather hypergear's housings are a little longer than stock, i've been thinking about cutting the actuator rod, tapping both ends and putting a long "nut" in between the cut pieces, a bit like a hks actuator

it seems that hypergear's actuators are a bit hit and miss, but 99% of stock ones work fine, but have weaker springs

you could also do that to an rb20 one (10psi spring)

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