Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im going crazy, the engine and gearbox are apart far enough that the engine can be turned over but it still wont come out. its stuck on something, i know this sounds stupid but it looks like the the plate between the engine and gearbox is somehow attached to the gearbox so the flywheel/clutch wont let go.

  • Replies 886
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

im going crazy, the engine and gearbox are apart far enough that the engine can be turned over but it still wont come out. its stuck on something, i know this sounds stupid but it looks like the the plate between the engine and gearbox is somehow attached to the gearbox so the flywheel/clutch wont let go.

Just keep wiggling it. Had similar trouble getting the gearbox off an SR20 once, seemed like no matter what we did it just wouldn't come out. Eventually we got it though. It's a hell of a lot easier with a transmission stand and a hoist glare.gif

With a crane you can take the engine and box out together. This is the way its generally done if they both need to come out. MUCH easier to work with the stuff on the ground than under the car. Mind you it is a bitch even getting the gtst box out. You need to support the box and not slide it with the box weight hanging on the car or you won't ever get it out.

Forged pistons all the way. Stock rods will be fine.

New main & rod bearings, probably best to go new water/oil pumps too.

If you are planning to see higher revs then have a crank collar fitted, as well as a sump baffle kit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
    • Yeah - I mean, go the other way. Smaller range. Not larger.
×
×
  • Create New...