Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the target now is just reliability, my wife and i have just got some big news so cars are just for transport now. ;) but considering forged pistons are easier to find il probably go that way. whats all this talk of getting forged pistons made to suit factory rings? is there something wrong with the rings they put with forged pistons?

i got a full 100k kit so ive got a new waterpump (old one is 50k old) the oil pump is a concern though. ive read something about n1 pumps being faulty, just a rumour? dont really think i need a tomei pump.

crank collar? whats that about?

Edited by lilcrash
  • Replies 886
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

N1 pump will be fine mate. By all means reuse your water pump if its in good condition.

an aftermarket crank collar machined to suit the crank makes sure the oil pump doesnt shatter at high RPM's, only needed if looking to rev out the engine to redline - if you arnt going to hit the track, drags or bounce off the limiter then it isnt needed, same goes for the Tomei sump baffle kit.

Forged pistons come with rings to suit.

Decent deals on atm for Neo CP pistons/rings - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CP-Pistons-RB25-RB25DET-Neo-R34-ER34-86-5mm-Bore-9-0-Compression-/200683838099?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2eb9b05a93

ACL bearings - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ACL-Race-STD-Rod-Main-Bearings-RB26-RB26DETT-Skyline-R32-R33-R34-GTR-/300639873296?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item45ff886910

oh, and congratulations on your 'news' ;)

I'm watching a set of cp pistons in an 86mm size, should I just get an 86.5mm set incase my bores aren't perfectly round?

I plan on replacing everything I can, might as well do it while it's apart. Just had heard recently made n1 pumps were faulty.

Just not looking to replacing my clutch after only 15k stupid excedy garbage. Probably go to npc this time and get a clutch made to suit the engines power.

You have gone from a budget turbo upgrade to a forged rebuild. If you just want reliability now that you have some news, why aren't you just putting a stock motor in and just tuning it to a nice reliable power level and leaving it at that? You will get none of this back when you go to sell it. I hate to be negative but it's still not too late!!

I just see a rebuilt motor as a more reliable option then an unknown km second hand motor. I'm already half way through the rebuild anyway so no point stopping now. Considering how much money I've spent on the car now I dont think I could sell it, at this point il be keeping it until atleast 2019 just to get the use out of it.

While I'm on here, how many people have rebuilt their cv shafts, are they expensive?

I just see a rebuilt motor as a more reliable option then an unknown km second hand motor. I'm already half way through the rebuild anyway so no point stopping now. Considering how much money I've spent on the car now I dont think I could sell it, at this point il be keeping it until atleast 2019 just to get the use out of it.

While I'm on here, how many people have rebuilt their cv shafts, are they expensive?

On a RWD with the ATTESSA its not that expensive if you do it your self. Depending on how shaggered they are, you can get new joints for about $50 a side, then you need the grease and the new boots. Get a CV shop to check them out see if they are still rebuildable and if they sell the parts you need.

second hand motor is definitely the better option, especially if you are just getting randoms to put the rebuild together, highly doubt it will be any more reliable

This is exactly what i was thinking. I'm going through this myself with my Nissan Patrol. I bought a built motor and a 180,000km stocker (not that high km for a big low revving 6 cyl and only $150) . Both are now pulled apart and the stocker is in so much better condition. All the hone marks are still there and everything all in spec. The built motor has turned out to be a crap and not built well at all. If everything is done right and by some1 who knows what they are doing then yes the built motor will be a better option and be more reliable but that will cost you $$$

so far my head has had the full treatment, block hasnt been machined yet but will be machined to suit whatever size pistons i buy. im not getting randoms to assemble it, a machine shop will be boring the block/installing new pistons and bearings then bolting my head on. after that i will put it it in the car as it will be easier to get in it that way, then bolt on all the ancillaries.

at the moment im looking at what pistons to buy, i also have to buy a pair of engine mounts, get a clutch made and get my cvs looked at while they are already out.

a machine shop will be boring the block/installing new pistons and bearings then bolting my head on

Unfortunately there is a lot more to it than that. Will they spend the time get all the tolerances spot on? There is a difference between putting an engine together and building one properly. Your head is done and can be bolted on to a stock bottom end. What power is your turbo meant to put out? Heaps of guys are running 300rwkw on stock bottom ends with no dramas as long as the tune is in order. If it lasts you a year or 2 then buy another bottom end as the head will still be fresh.

You really need to listen to guys on here that have done it all before. You haven't spent any money on the bottom end yet. How much do you think it will cost after you buy the pistons??

I thought neos used an n1 pump?

My turbo is a hypergear atr43 ss-1. I'm planning on running about 220kw at the wheels.

There is no way that I will be buying a second hand motor, my wife won't let me waste that much money for more problems.

I trust my machine shop to do a good job.

you are probably right about the forged pistons, i dont actually need them, but until i get a price on some stock pistons the cp pistons are looking like a cheap enough option, my engine made 220kw on 14 psi last time so it just sounded like a safe number for now. hell on the dyno if i can find a good enough tuner i might make the 250kw that the turbo is claimed to be capable of, but for now a nice safe tune is all i need.

i under stand fully why buying a 2nd hand motor is a bad option, thats why im not really considering that an option, i could buy an unknown km/condition 2nd hand motor and it might only last a few weeks, id prefer to spend $2000 building a brand new internal motor, keeping my matching numbers block in the car and having it built for alot more power then i will ever make with it. then i will know that nothing is going to break in a few months time.

i will weigh up my options about the pistons and im pretty sure stock pistons will be fine for my goal, just at this point i havent seen a price on a set of pistons from nissan.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...