Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gts-T Rev Limiting At Around 2500Rpm? How To Fix?

Widesays

By Widesays,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Widesays Collaborator

Widesays

Posted
Posted (edited)

hey guys,

today i started up the 1992 r32 gts-t, its stock with boost gauge and boost controller cat back exhaust, anyways, the car idles erratically and rev limits at around 2500rpm? how do i fix this asap? i've read elsewhere it could be the AFM or soemthing? any advice or a how to fix would be much appreciated.

also before this issue began my RPM gauge would go mental and turn completely past the redline, the revs don't change just the actual gauge itself, r these issues related??

Thanks

posted a video on youtube of the problem so so you can exactly what im talking about.

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=ZTDHzfr2h3I

Edited by Widesays
kaluah8123 Explorer

kaluah8123

Posted
Posted

Definitely sounds like AFM. Unplug it and see if the car runs the same.

Try this:

http://www.skylinesa...your-rb26-afms/

car wont run without the afm matey but yeh it definetely sounds like it they do weird things depending on how low the voltage in them has gone just get a replacement one they are pretty cheap second hand for around 100 u should find one under. u havent tinkered with anything while the car has been laying there idle?

Widesays Collaborator

Widesays

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok so heres an update, i started it up this morning and it was fine again? wtf, it first happened while i was going through a round about in 3rd gear, got out from the round about and the gear started limiting at 2500rpm so i pulled over and while the car was rolling (still running) i gave it a rev and it fixed itself, drove it home with no issue, then the next day went to start it and it was limiting as i drove up the block it hit 2.5k rpm and started like bunny hopping so took it home, left it, started it up in the arvo was fine, no issues. then as of now, this morning, is all good again??? could the wiring be short circuiting or is my afm dying?? as of right now i just drove it and its fine...only reason i ask about the wiring is because in the 1 - 2 weeks that ive owned the car, the window reg died (replaced it), the rpm gauge goes mental and last time i touched the heater i couldn't turn it off >< lol so i had to bash it then it turned off lol...any thoughts?

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

There is probably a bad solder joint inside the AFM. If you have a soldering iron you can crack it open and repair it using the How To on here somewhere. If not you will have to replace it.

jhjones Rising Star

jhjones

Posted
Posted

car wont run without the afm matey but yeh it definetely sounds like it they do weird things depending on how low the voltage in them has gone just get a replacement one they are pretty cheap second hand for around 100 u should find one under. u havent tinkered with anything while the car has been laying there idle?

?? Mine starts with the AFM unpluged, but it idles at like 1300rpm and limited to 2500rpm. Have I got a vacumm leak or something?

pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted

if it won't run without the afm then you have another problem

r32's definitely will run without one, i drove about 5kms without one when my cooler pipe let go (exploded out of the car and into the bush, never saw that one again

kaluah8123 Explorer

kaluah8123

Posted
Posted

?? Mine starts with the AFM unpluged, but it idles at like 1300rpm and limited to 2500rpm. Have I got a vacumm leak or something?

it will run like shit though thats what i m saying but yeh sounds like it is still the afm they are so cheap to buy just try one if its not then maybe a computer fault i got a spare one here i can give u for post if u wanna try it

jhjones Rising Star

jhjones

Posted
Posted

it will run like shit though thats what i m saying but yeh sounds like it is still the afm they are so cheap to buy just try one if its not then maybe a computer fault i got a spare one here i can give u for post if u wanna try it

Mines fine just unplugged it to see what would happen. I'm from NZ anyway.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...