Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes i used to own a R32 GT-R , about 5 years ago.

i now have a R33 GT-R and R34 GT-R Vspec , the R32 i owned was 1991 and was "laggy" compared to my cars now if you know what i mean , when cornering understeer was happening whilst going fast around some turns if you know what i mean then id do a laggy powerslide ..

youll understand what i mean after you hop in a R33 GT-R and R34.

Thanks for the info, the reason i am asking is because this christmas the 1990 cars become eligable for import under the 15 year rule.

I just trying to decide on a car, can someone describe how they are and where should i look for a seller?

Thank you!

yeh id just buy a 1990 and wait till they are 15 years old since the 1989's arnt such a good build.

lwells think hes joking about the bad bild mate, they're all the same maybe trilabs doesn't realise the 32 started in 89.

your 32 understeered? wow!

i think most 89 were recalled a couple of times for various things ,attessa.big end prob`s oil pressure prob`s etc.. however they had everthing sorted by 1990 ...i remember reading that on a nissan web site somewherethey called it teething problems

i`m waiting to get the 1990 model ..just to be sure

In defence of the 89s if they've been recalled, then they've been fixed/sorted; unless you've found a particular example which has not been taken back for the work (which would be under Nissans warranty) which I'd say would be rare - given that infact; these issues/recalls existed.

I'd be wary of putting my money on bringing in a 1990 model under a 15 year rule in 2005, that rule may no longer exist, DOTARs has already made suggestions of this.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...