Jump to content
SAU Community

Z32 Aftermarket Air Mass Meters On Ebay. Anyone Used/uses Them?

livewire

By livewire,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

livewire Experienced

livewire

Posted
Posted

Hi people. Need new air flow meters for R33 gtr motor as mine have started playing up so figure I'll upgrade to z32's while I'm at it as I already have aftermarket turbos, Power fc etc. I've noticed a lot of them on ebay that are not Bosch or jecs ones but some still come with a Good 2 year warrenty but a lot cheaper to buy. Anyone used or uses them? If so, have you had ANy issues? are they just as good reliability and performance wise? And are they just as tuneable as the Bosch ones etc?

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

I doubt anyone has used these on this forum yet. I would still recommend using a used set.

If you want to be the test mule for them Im sure plenty of people would want to see.. Up to you.

livewire Experienced

livewire

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well apparently they are designed to meet or exceed oem meters which I think are jecs? Some come with 2 years warranty which is probably the same if not more than Bosch items. And the replacement 300zx meters range from $75-$150 as opposed to the $340 pricetag of Bosch meters. Might be worth a try. I'm willing to be a guinea pig if you guys are willing to not laugh if I waste my money lol.

The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted

I wouldn't laugh, I'll help you where ever I can, I'm pretty good with power fc's.

There are heaps of others here that would help also. This is a genuine curiosity thing.

livewire Experienced

livewire

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Haha, maybe not so much laugh but more the 'I told you so' by the people who only believe in more expensive is always better. I'm happy to be the guinea pig anyway. Thanks for the offer on the power fc help but will get it put on the dyno cause it was only tuned last weekend but we think it was tuned with a faulty air flow meter because after removing the factory ones to do the whole clean and re-solder the car hi actually driveable now and doesn't want to stall but idles up and down constantly as though it has huge cams in it lol. Just to be clear though...if its a direct replacement for 300zx/infinity its the one I want? And will just need the z32 conversion plugs to suit rb26?

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

I would buy a new one from an SAU retailer (I did) . If you are going to buy an Ebay knock-off there are two issues - reliabilty as in accuracy... and length of life. The second factor only time will tell but the first you really need to do back to back tests with a known good one.The rumour is that they are not accurate but I am sure everyone will be gratefull if you are willing to do the testing.

kitto Mentor

kitto

Posted
Posted

Be careful, the ones that go for $150 ARE copies!

They work, but require hours of voltage re-scaling as they are nothing like the bosch/jecs unit.

Theres an article on garage 7s website about them.

livewire Experienced

livewire

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Because the R34 costs $45-50000 and twice as much to insure. Was driving it once in two weeks if that. It was an awesome car but Thought I'd go for something a lot cheaper but still with the rb26 in it till my house is finished off :-)

benl1981 Grand Master

benl1981

Posted
Posted

Don't go the copy.

If you look hard enough you can get a new genuine one delivered for under $300. Much better option. Even second hand genuine would be better.

The copy will cost more in tuning and if it goes bung you will need to retune, The genuine items are closely controlled in terms of airflow vs voltage. I doubt the copies are.

GTRsean Grand Master

GTRsean

Posted
Posted

Lol, looks like you need to fix your profile bar under: cars!!!

A good read to tell real from fakies here:

http://forum.nistune.com/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=1431

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...