Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi people. Need new air flow meters for R33 gtr motor as mine have started playing up so figure I'll upgrade to z32's while I'm at it as I already have aftermarket turbos, Power fc etc. I've noticed a lot of them on ebay that are not Bosch or jecs ones but some still come with a Good 2 year warrenty but a lot cheaper to buy. Anyone used or uses them? If so, have you had ANy issues? are they just as good reliability and performance wise? And are they just as tuneable as the Bosch ones etc?

I doubt anyone has used these on this forum yet. I would still recommend using a used set.

If you want to be the test mule for them Im sure plenty of people would want to see.. Up to you.

Well apparently they are designed to meet or exceed oem meters which I think are jecs? Some come with 2 years warranty which is probably the same if not more than Bosch items. And the replacement 300zx meters range from $75-$150 as opposed to the $340 pricetag of Bosch meters. Might be worth a try. I'm willing to be a guinea pig if you guys are willing to not laugh if I waste my money lol.

I wouldn't laugh, I'll help you where ever I can, I'm pretty good with power fc's.

There are heaps of others here that would help also. This is a genuine curiosity thing.

Haha, maybe not so much laugh but more the 'I told you so' by the people who only believe in more expensive is always better. I'm happy to be the guinea pig anyway. Thanks for the offer on the power fc help but will get it put on the dyno cause it was only tuned last weekend but we think it was tuned with a faulty air flow meter because after removing the factory ones to do the whole clean and re-solder the car hi actually driveable now and doesn't want to stall but idles up and down constantly as though it has huge cams in it lol. Just to be clear though...if its a direct replacement for 300zx/infinity its the one I want? And will just need the z32 conversion plugs to suit rb26?

I would buy a new one from an SAU retailer (I did) . If you are going to buy an Ebay knock-off there are two issues - reliabilty as in accuracy... and length of life. The second factor only time will tell but the first you really need to do back to back tests with a known good one.The rumour is that they are not accurate but I am sure everyone will be gratefull if you are willing to do the testing.

Be careful, the ones that go for $150 ARE copies!

They work, but require hours of voltage re-scaling as they are nothing like the bosch/jecs unit.

Theres an article on garage 7s website about them.

Because the R34 costs $45-50000 and twice as much to insure. Was driving it once in two weeks if that. It was an awesome car but Thought I'd go for something a lot cheaper but still with the rb26 in it till my house is finished off :-)

Don't go the copy.

If you look hard enough you can get a new genuine one delivered for under $300. Much better option. Even second hand genuine would be better.

The copy will cost more in tuning and if it goes bung you will need to retune, The genuine items are closely controlled in terms of airflow vs voltage. I doubt the copies are.

Lol, looks like you need to fix your profile bar under: cars!!!

A good read to tell real from fakies here:

http://forum.nistune.com/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=1431

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...