Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i had a moment when drifting last weekend, handbrake got jammed up when doing the new link section at the creek, scared the shit out me! so im going hydro so itl never happen again.

1zz2law.jpg

this is what i got. hopefully have it all mounted by the weekend

  • 2 weeks later...

havent had a chance to fit the hydro up yet, diff needed to be re done again...

2efjevs.jpg

thought while its out may as well go solid diff mount and raise the diff to hopefully put less stress on the cvs.

Brae worked his magic again and made up these set for me, stoked will how good they turned out!

f4o6fp.jpg

I was trying to get a before and after shot but forgot. still kind of gives you and idea

w0os4k.jpg

Edited by ydr030
  • 2 weeks later...

not much of a update but im chasing a noise in the rear end, i think its the diff again, but i need to rule a few things out before i can go back to the diff shop with a solid arguement. really pissed off about the whole thing.

anyway enough winging, im doing all bearings and thought if im going to go that far i may aswell do the brakes.

so typical DR30 u cannot get parts, ive ended up using a z31 disc with 5mm caliper spacers. and s15 pads.

25pofgk.jpg

funny thing is always bugs me these are 290mm dia. fronts are 280mm lol

will be upgrading fronts in the future

yea cheers man, i no the mount will make it louder this noise isnt good. i basically got the diff done drove it up the road and came home and parked it. ive drained the diff oil and its all shiny ( if that makes sense) so thats why i think the diff shop stuffed up with the bearings. gotta go throu all the bs before i can do anything about it. like i said im pissed off.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

^ haha yea was pretty f*ked ! Diff shop came to the party and hooked me up with free labour. All the 4.11 s I could find were to expensive so have gone to z31 with 3.7 s. Haven't done any real drifting but lower ratio seems to be the goods. Hanging to do skids

4glyxf.jpg

finally fitted up hydro! still needs some fine tuning but so far so good, thing is so good! hanging to propally try it out

15fhezl.jpg

also moved oil cooler down to right hand front of the bar, its only temporary now until i make up a proper bash bar

  • 2 weeks later...

went out to the skid pan last saturday, just to try everything out, hydro is amazing! diff ratio seems o.k, just hanging for dry skids to propally see how she goes

2qsts11.jpg

wt63jp.jpg

hit a witches hat, munted the bar :(

241t9uu.jpg

took the oppertunity to fix up the rest of the bar, first time that ive done any fibreglassing, turned out ok

did abit of hard parking at the allstars thing on the weekend

r05y5k.jpg

also found some old photos, ive scanned them in so qualitys not the best, man i miss the fj, even thought it was a mess....

r9hje1.jpg

^rb20,

getting towed to tuners, for its first tune with rb20. made 220 hp lol

xndona.jpg

Edited by ydr030
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Some troubleshooting, connect up a timing light/gun with a proper ignition lead on coil 1. Hold the revs at 4~4500rpm and see if your timing is all over the shop, scattering off its tits. If so, there's a high chance your CAS is fked. But I read you have a Link ECU ready to go in, why not just skip all this and put that in - will make troubleshooting so much easier.  
    • Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
    • House of Fatz dry dock needs a clean sadly one of the long time stables is leaving this weekend   see ya mr purple
    • Hence why I've only modified my car into a pure daily. Everything has to remain reliable & roadworthy, while providing value and grin factor. It also must not be handcrafted to the extent that the car will be immovable if something breaks because you cannot get or make a replacement to at least limp around with.
×
×
  • Create New...