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Nick you should have an email.

Couple of photos of the Battery box that was installed last week. Poor quality photos but ill take a couple of the next one once its welded prior to being installed.

post-20349-0-01826000-1334010127_thumb.jpg

post-20349-0-15943000-1334010136_thumb.jpg

Really sorry if it's been posted, but I noticed this and didn't wanna read through the whole thread especially on an iPhone.

How much would one of these set you back?

And also an undercar surge tank for a 33 GTST to suit 044's

Edited by gtsttrk

Really sorry if it's been posted, but I noticed this and didn't wanna read through the whole thread especially on an iPhone.

How much would one of these set you back?

And also an undercar surge tank for a 33 GTST to suit 044's

No problem at all.

Those battery boxes have been revised a little since the early ones. They are $220 inc gst.

The undercar surge tank for the R33 I think there is photos earlier in the thread but they are $330inc gst but don't come with pumps.

hey Brad,

got any off the shelf baffled catch can setups for CT9A evo's ?

something like the weapon R design but with internal baffle (or i can just add the cotton wool myself) would be good

step_148.jpeg

http://www.evomoto.c...=3_6&tech_id=21

It's the white R34 I was doing the other day when you were up.

It's a dedicated circuit car, the cage is a chassis brace as well, just because I could.

Pedal box and relocated seat with custom steering coloum.

It's the white R34 I was doing the other day when you were up.

It's a dedicated circuit car, the cage is a chassis brace as well, just because I could.

Pedal box and relocated seat with custom steering coloum.

Yeah, I figured it was the same car, looks very comprehensive that cage!

I thought you might need to set things back a bit. I wish all the pedal boxes and what not didn't cost so damn much or I'd be doing them also!

Hey Brad, how hard would it be to do a single lug nut conversion on an R32 GTR? The catch is i wana use 3 piece BBS porsche cup rims off of a 996 GT3 RSR.

Been done before and have the CAD drawings to prove it :)

The porka uses an odd PCD for the drive pegs compared to most other centre lock wheels.

There is two ways to do the conversion one is rather expensive but far superior the other is cheaper, works fine but isn't doing anything for the suspension geometry.

I've got a GTR that's had a conversion to use team dynamics touring car wheels.

Some teams use left hand threads on one side of the car (Porsche don't) problem you'll have with the Porsche wheels is they need the matching nut that has a different tapper to most, Porsche Motorsport sell them as too does WRS in Cooma QLD. They do wear out fairly quickly and need to be replaced due to the torque they are tightened to.

Are you familiar with the special locking systems used to prevent the nut coming loose? The older harrop system is great and fairly easy to fabricate the newer spring loaded socket opperated locks are more reliable but very time consuming to do. The primitive system Brock used to use was great too, a simple inside circlip that protrudes out and stops the nut spinning off. I've used that in the past when the budget was tight.

Do you have access to the porka wheels or just buying them from somewhere?

Dynamics are now doing 18's from 10's to 12's in any offsett you nominate. They use a more universal PCD and take a conventional captive nut that can be bought used from a lot of touring car teams for 50 bucks each ($500 is the new price for a captive nut from dynamics)

You could have a wait for new wheels though. Apparently 888 have an order for 1000 wheels which is being filled over several months.

Been done before and have the CAD drawings to prove it :)

The porka uses an odd PCD for the drive pegs compared to most other centre lock wheels.

There is two ways to do the conversion one is rather expensive but far superior the other is cheaper, works fine but isn't doing anything for the suspension geometry.

I've got a GTR that's had a conversion to use team dynamics touring car wheels.

Some teams use left hand threads on one side of the car (Porsche don't) problem you'll have with the Porsche wheels is they need the matching nut that has a different tapper to most, Porsche Motorsport sell them as too does WRS in Cooma QLD. They do wear out fairly quickly and need to be replaced due to the torque they are tightened to.

Are you familiar with the special locking systems used to prevent the nut coming loose? The older harrop system is great and fairly easy to fabricate the newer spring loaded socket opperated locks are more reliable but very time consuming to do. The primitive system Brock used to use was great too, a simple inside circlip that protrudes out and stops the nut spinning off. I've used that in the past when the budget was tight.

Do you have access to the porka wheels or just buying them from somewhere?

Dynamics are now doing 18's from 10's to 12's in any offsett you nominate. They use a more universal PCD and take a conventional captive nut that can be bought used from a lot of touring car teams for 50 bucks each ($500 is the new price for a captive nut from dynamics)

You could have a wait for new wheels though. Apparently 888 have an order for 1000 wheels which is being filled over several months.

Is the expensive way to convert to a double wishbone front suspension setup with a custom centrelock hub? The single lug motorsport wheels I have found all have significant offset and foul on the suspension components.

I have played with a custom hub design to accept a centrelock wheel but I think it is too much of a novelty more than anything else.

Pretty much mike but not using any custom parts as such. Use off the shelf parts from racer industries (Paul Morris) and touring car teams. Ensures parts are available for at least 6-10 years.

What about mods to the chassis? Retaining the AWD?

Give me a call if you get a chance please Brad. Thanks.

Edited by bigmikespec

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