Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What is transient/part throttle response like though, not everyone spends all day at WOT,

I would bet my left nut the 2835 poo's all over the Hypergear stuff at normal street loads and rpm

So you mean cars with result that made less power on WOT all over the rev range should drive heaps better on street load? If that is the case then no one would be dumping money in R&D for better response and power delivery.

I can take you for a test drive if you are in Melbourne.

  • Replies 158
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I appears the Joey, myself and others that are running the 2835 seem to be getting ~280 @ about 18-20psi (just generalizing/average) where the HG units seem to need 20-22 to get those figures.

Cough Cough Trent showed me Joeyjoey's dyno using the same correction factor that he uses for Tao's dynos and it made 268rwkw. It only makes 280rwkw when you change the correction factor...

Plus Joeys result is full boost at 3500rpm, not 3200rpm like your dyno shows Dave.

When using the exact same dyno the SS1 on my car made 244rwkw and 20psi by 3200rpm. The SS1PU fits very closely to the SS1PU ~270kw and 3500rpm full boost and the SS2 very closely to the 3076 280-300rwkw and 3800rpm full boost.

huh???? are you saying my tuner is falsifying my dyno readouts as well...??? wtf

Hmmm cant remember saying that. Your setup has a few more mods too RIPS aftermarket plenum and ARC super induction box.

Midread sorry. So why does he change correction factors?

All on same dyno same correction etc

2835 made 277kw full boost 3200

Ss2 made 244kw 19psi

Ss1.5 made 259 19psi but didnt back it up. Ran 246 next

Atr43g3 made 232 kw 19psi maxed stock injectors at 6000rpm. This one feels strong as now with bigger injectors only road tuned but. Very curious to see what it makes

enough talk, overlay the dyno plots.... lets see which has more under the curve...

and not using some demo car thats been tweaked to get a curve.

Sounds good but back to back on the same dyno using the same correction factor etc.

So you mean cars with result that made less power on WOT all over the rev range should drive heaps better on street load? If that is the case then no one would be dumping money in R&D for better response and power delivery.

I can take you for a test drive if you are in Melbourne.

NO!

I am saying that WOT means very little on a street car,

a car that can make +ve inlet pressure at 20% throttle and 3000rpm is better than a car that needs 50% throttle to make +ve inlet pressure at 3000rpm etc

Midread sorry. So why does he change correction factors?

All on same dyno same correction etc

2835 made 277kw full boost 3200

Ss2 made 244kw 19psi

Ss1.5 made 259 19psi but didnt back it up. Ran 246 next

Atr43g3 made 232 kw 19psi maxed stock injectors at 6000rpm. This one feels strong as now with bigger injectors only road tuned but. Very curious to see what it makes

Well clearly the 3 Hypergear turbos have other issues that are holding the turbo back.

Dave's setup is pretty damn awesome, lots of additional parts and effort have gone into that car. Engine bay looks unreal.

Dont think its comparing apples with apples.

You have tuned 3 Hypergear turbos and Trent would have tuned 50+.

NO!

I am saying that WOT means very little on a street car,

a car that can make +ve inlet pressure at 20% throttle and 3000rpm is better than a car that needs 50% throttle to make +ve inlet pressure at 3000rpm etc

Which we dont have any measurements on so basically you are just guessing.

Well clearly the 3 Hypergear turbos have other issues that are holding the turbo back.

Dave's setup is pretty damn awesome, lots of additional parts and effort have gone into that car. Engine bay looks unreal.

Dont think its comparing apples with apples.

You have tuned 3 Hypergear turbos and Trent would have tuned 50+.

That is correct no doubt, it may just be the difference between dyno's but we cant back the numbers up thats all. The ss1.5 i installed and made sure everything was done correctly including the 3inch intake etc. Its nice to drive sounds wicked but just didnt quite have the top end he was hoping for.

I new it wouldn't take long for you to call bullsh1t Harey, my post in which you quoted says that the HG seems to need a little more boost to make the same figures that is all.

Personally I couldnt care less anymore if you think all of us "2835 fanboys" as you have called us before just like to get our tuners to play around with ramp rates blah blah blah so we can show a dyno graph that is more impressive than yours. That's just absurd.

You seem to be o e of the biggest HKS/Garrett haters on these forums.

Fact: the HG turbos are great bang for buck and stoa does great work.

Fact 2: hks turbos are also a great turbo but you pay for it

Fact 3: if you were to have some kind of race with bolting up the HG compared to the hks I can promise you the hks will be on and strapped up on the rollers while you are still working out what to do with you water lines and wondering why the dump is fouling on the air con drain.

Sorry man but this is just how it is, not trying to start a war.

Hmmm cant remember saying that. Your setup has a few more mods too RIPS aftermarket plenum and ARC super induction box.

Hang on a sec, your saying a front facing plenum and an aftermarket air intake is maybe allowing me to make more power... huh

there are heaps of thread on SAU saying these mods make no more power... so which is it???

Im not saying bullsh!t, I think they are fantastic turbo. I am just showing the other side and I dont think the difference is quite what a few of you make it out to be.

Fact 4 you will have to work for another month to pay off the additional hks pricetag :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
×
×
  • Create New...