Jump to content
SAU Community

How Much Should I Pay For New R35?


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Your statement is incorrect.

You should have written - Considering the RRP is $168k after LCT and before onroads.

LCT is included in the rrp of $168k, onroads are not.

Whooopsie :P

So that means that the dealers are throwing $21k on the RRP for onroads and stamp duty and selling for $189k?? Thats insane.

Edited by Wardski
  • 2 weeks later...

I've noticed they depreciate pretty fast, not so good for sellers but good for buyers. I think I saw one go for 100k, it was the first year model but it's still a GT-R.

Just checked there's an 09 going for 107k in QLD in RED and it's only done 20,000kms which is pretty low for any car. Would you guys say this depreciation would slow down alot because for 3 years it's alot of depreciation.

Just checked there's an 09 going for 107k in QLD in RED and it's only done 20,000kms which is pretty low for any car. Would you guys say this depreciation would slow down alot because for 3 years it's alot of depreciation.

Does not seem excessive, from 160K to 100K is about right, but IMO it will start to slow down now.

This is from redbook - sell prices, forget about the advertised prices: $100,100 - $108,800 for 09' premiums.

My guesses, as good as any :rolleyes: - 100-110K for a 3 year old one, maybe 90-95k for a 4 year old one, 85k for a 5 year old one, until they bottom out around 60-65k for a 10 year old examples. If there is no successor, R36, then I'd expect them to bottom around 75-80K.

there definitely will be an R36, it has mentioned in a round-about way at the various model launches etc

the GTR program is generating alot of interest in the rest of the Nissan lineup and driving a sales boom for the company - just as it was intended

also, development on the current platform has pretty much peaked in terms of oem warrantied power levels on regular pump fuel

Edited by domino_z

im not fussed about the drip feed power increases - aftermarket has proved gains can be had for very little effort

what id like to see is some improvement on interior plastic materials and trim.

slightly stiffer springs on one side to counter my weight????

.....how about some real leather on the dash and door trims

Edited by domino_z

Does not seem excessive, from 160K to 100K is about right, but IMO it will start to slow down now.

Personally, I think it will be the other way around.

Your looking at a car which has now from 2012, hit the 3 year old mark. Leases will run out and there will be quite a few more on the market. Hence, more to choose from and more competitive prices.

Again, grain of salt - just my thoughts.

  • 3 weeks later...

I can tell you that interest in the MY12's is higher than ever. I work for a dealer and we are already sold out of supply until May (with somewhere in the region of 10 sold between the Jan and April arrivals).

With some pretty big news on the horizon too... i can only see the MY12's booming in the June/July time.

  • 2 weeks later...

Just purchased demo MY11 Black on black 3000km in VIC for $139,888 drive away. I've got some good connections so pm me if you want a new or demo one around that price. looking forward to meeting you all. Just drove 1000km in 2 days and have a sore neck :\

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...