Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

to solve your situation Ive got to say hypergear hiflow...

but how just how perfect do you want to be is the question, budget equals hypergear hiflow...

no budget limit and anything goes... stock turbo wins for economy though

i think he ment including turbo which sounds about right. honestly mate if you dont want to spend the bucks and happy with 200kw then buy a stock turbo and run 12 pound max and it should last

f**k me $1350 for a tune? Let me know who that is so I know not to go there.

Unigroup supply fit tune of a Nistune board.

Cant just tune a stock ECU now can we? LOL need to buy the tunable bit :whistling:

DVS JEZ is cheaper but I dont like to quote the cheapest, that gets peoples hopes up. Unigroups price should be close to standard so wherever he is locate he should be able to get it done for around that much.

If the car was well set up to begin with I would still say budget $2500 to high flow and remap.

Unigroup supply fit tune of a Nistune board.

Cant just tune a stock ECU now can we? LOL need to buy the tunable bit :whistling:

DVS JEZ is cheaper but I dont like to quote the cheapest, that gets peoples hopes up. Unigroups price should be close to standard so wherever he is locate he should be able to get it done for around that much.

If the car was well set up to begin with I would still say budget $2500 to high flow and remap.

This is why i'm going to do one of those tuning classes at Unigroup and buy my own equipment, seems like it'll save a bit of coin and tuning is something i've always wanted to learn.

Unigroup supply fit tune of a Nistune board.

Cant just tune a stock ECU now can we? LOL need to buy the tunable bit :whistling:

DVS JEZ is cheaper but I dont like to quote the cheapest, that gets peoples hopes up. Unigroups price should be close to standard so wherever he is locate he should be able to get it done for around that much.

If the car was well set up to begin with I would still say budget $2500 to high flow and remap.

Oh so your including having nistune hardware as well? Does the nistune hardware make a power fc any better?

to solve your situation Ive got to say hypergear hiflow...

Thanks
stock turbo wins for economy though

Considering the Ks I do thats a consideration. Is there any rule of thumb on differences in fuel use when highway cruising?

i think he ment including turbo which sounds about right. honestly mate if you dont want to spend the bucks and happy with 200kw then buy a stock turbo and run 12 pound max and it should last

From some of the info posted so far I may just end up doing that.

I got about 8 years out of the old one with the boost wound up.

Unigroup supply fit tune of a Nistune board.

Cant just tune a stock ECU now can we? LOL need to buy the tunable bit :whistling:

Guys, Im not running a stock board.

I have a PFC fitted and am factoring a tune no matter what I end up doing.

You were running 15psi through the stock turbo?

No wonder it shat itself... No more than 11-12psi should be run.

Its been that for the last 8 years or so.

And yes, hi-flowing will make it laggier, you are putting in larger wheels.

Ok thanks, had never really thought about what hi-flowing entailed, I thought it was just porting and polishing or something like that.

$350 is for second hand stock turbo.

Realistically to put a decent hi-flow, ball bearing etc, $1600 is the cheapest you'll get. You can get bush bearing ones for around $800 but their performance is not as good and for 220rwkw there is little point in spending $800, then $500+ for the tune only to gain 20rwkw and more lag.

I would not get a bush bearing one, may be me but I dont think they last as long.

Hey, is it possible to get my turbo rebuilt? If so where?

GCG, hypergear or mtq will be able to rebuild it, if your going down that road make sure you get steel exhaust wheel (although i doubt anyone would put the shitty ceramic one back in) i would also suggest using an op6/vg30/r34 rear housing, yes it would make it laggier but it would help solve your boost drop off problem (as would a good electronic boost controller) and would a allow you to run a little more boost which would put you right on your limit, its also a direct bolt on.

Edited by W0rp3D

and since you have an Eboost you either need to have it set up properly or replace your wastegate, it should not be dropping off boost at 4200, maybe around 5500 with the restrictive exhaust housing but 4200 is too low.

Highflow turbo, ecu, injectors, afm, clutch, fuel pump.

$4k adventure if you want 240kw or 300kw, need all the same parts. Or you are just stuck with the stock turbo if you don't want to replace stuff.

Hey, is it possible to get my turbo rebuilt? If so where?

When people say get a highflow thats what htey mean, rebuild stock turbo with bigger spec wheels. Hypergear, gcg, lots of places do it. Once again you need all the parts listed above if you go a bigger turbo though.

Edited by Rolls

You were running 15psi through the stock turbo?

That takes some balls, but at least it didn't end in tears with bits of compressor wheel going through the engine.

Still I heard of people running 14 psi day in day out on the R33 GTST turbo and the R34 one is a bit stronger I think.

Sorry to semi-hijack the thread, but for me the biggest issue I have with a high flow turbo is the poverty spec journal bearing and resultant lag. I know it is cheap, but I'm thinking it might just be worth getting a decent ball bearing turbo which won't run out of puff at 6k. I mean if you are going to go to the expense of getting to the point (injectors, fuel pump, FMIC, ecu etc), may as well get a good turbo even if you stay low mount and internal gate?

Edited by Tony de Wonderful

Sorry to semi-hijack the thread, but for me the biggest issue I have with a high flow turbo is the poverty spec journal bearing and resultant lag. I know it is cheap, but I'm thinking it might just be worth getting a decent ball bearing turbo which won't run out of puff at 6k. I mean if you are going to go to the expense of getting to the point (injectors, fuel pump, FMIC, ecu etc), may as well get a good turbo even if you stay low mount and internal gate?

The GCG hiflow is a ball bearing unit.

and since you have an Eboost you either need to have it set up properly or replace your wastegate, it should not be dropping off boost at 4200, maybe around 5500 with the restrictive exhaust housing but 4200 is too low.

I was told by a few people the stock turbo being unable to maintain the higher boost (double stock) as the revs increased is to be expected, not an issue with the wastegate or Eboost. It seemed logical to me, but I guess that was just an assumption I made that suited the facts and backedup what others said, lol.

When people say get a highflow thats what htey mean, rebuild stock turbo with bigger spec wheels. Hypergear, gcg, lots of places do it. Once again you need all the parts listed above if you go a bigger turbo though.

Thanks.

Am getting Hypergear to rebuild and highflow my turbo.

It seems to be the better option when you take my requirements into account.

Edited by Bill

I was told by a few people the stock turbo being unable to maintain the higher boost (double stock) as the revs increased is to be expected, not an issue with the wastegate or Eboost. It seemed logical to me, but I guess that was just an assumption I made that suited the facts and backedup what others said, lol.

that is the case but it should hold boost a bit longer than that befoe it falls off, thats also why i mentioned the bigger exhaust housing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
    • I assume clearances were all a-okay?
    • Shock tower brace is in +5Kw....LOL  
×
×
  • Create New...