Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, in short, I've had my engine rebuilt, and after reinstalling, can't get it to fire, not even a cough. There's fuel, deffo got compression, but no spark.

Specifics: it's an r33 rb26, in a vl. Wiring was professionally done, and before the rebuild it was all good. Stock computer, no big injectors or anything.

Rebuild was done by a mate, who's done a few race engines, but his first rb26. I have no doubt he's done right. Basic mild rebuild, pistons, rods etc. turbos have been hi flowed, steel wheeled etc. (mate is 500km away, so not keen to trailer there to look over it)

Took it to a local mechanic (country vic) who put it down to an intermittent fault and wouldn't go any further.

Everything I've done on a budget, and after returning from os, haven't got cash to splash around, missus is preggers, so just taking it to an auto elec with an open cheque book is the last thing I'll do.

Any suggestions on where to start, cas, afm? Is there something incredibly stupid that I'm missing?

Any suggestions gratefully accepted!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/385922-rb26-not-firing-after-rebuild/
Share on other sites

Local guy is an idiot, how is it intermittant if it wont start. If there is injector pulse, then it wont be cas, does the fuel pump come on with ignition for a few seconds, and then again when cranking? Power at the coils, Ecu and igniter/coils earthed? Are you sure there is no spark? You can measure Afm voltage with ignition on at the ecu to confirm wiring and afm's. How do the plugs look? Maybe Double check the cam timing, and while you are at it does it still have the locating pin in teh front of the exhaust cam to align the cas?

Thanks for the replies lads, gives me somewhere to start, would be amazing if it's just those two plugs in the wrong spot. I'll get in and have a crack after work and see where it leads!

Rolls, the wiring was done by a company who do heaps of conversions, this was the first one of this kind, so fingers crossed it hasn't gone tits up there. As said, was previously running as is, so hopefully not!

Back of the inlet manifold there is 2 plugs that can be swapped by accident. Check and swap these. Has happened to me tooThey connect to the coilpack / ignitor loom

Thanks for the replies lads, gives me somewhere to start, would be amazing if it's just those two plugs in the wrong spot.

hahaha Nissan are normally so good about this....but there are indeed 2 plugs that fit together the wrong way around and will stop spark on the 32 gtr loom. you'll always remember after the first time you do it :P

Update:

There's power at all the coil packs (just over 10 volt each). There's power at the relays at the ecu when ignition is off (12v) but its still there when the ignition is on, so obv relays aren't actuating, and we have a problem.

Unsure if related, but fuel pump is not coming on with ignition either.

Assume there is a failure in power supply somewhere?

Also, unrelated I think, found that the earth cable to the battery was busted, now fixed.

Ecu and coils/ ign are earthed.

Pulled cas off, locating pin is there, connected the plug and spun with my fingers and got nothing from the injectors. Tried with a second cas for same result. Assume this is also a problem from relays not locking in.

If theres power at the coilpacks, use an led test light to see if they are pulsing when cranking,

If no

Use led test light to see if there is a pulse before the ignitor.

This test will tell u if the ecu is outputting a signal to the ignitor and if the ignitor is recieving and outputting a signal to the coils.

If pulse before ignitor but none out need new ignitor.

No pulse before ignitor ecu, cas or wiring issue

Is the tacho moving when u crank?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The incentives are mostly the same, yes. Ethanol is cheap compared to the cost of doing 98-100 RON with crude oil alone. 87 to 93-94 AKI all with E10. In 2020 Canada mandated E10 as a part of their "renewable fuel standard" and is supposedly going to go to E15 in 2030. In California where there are only 8 refineries with two threatening to shut down next year it's been over 20 years now of E10 and 91 AKI maximum because there's just not enough refinery capacity or crude oil supply relative to the demand for premium unleaded fuel. And CARB's low carbon fuel standard means functionally none of the diesel available at the pump is made from crude oil anymore. It's almost all entirely 20% biodiesel blended with 80% renewable diesel (hydrotreated vegetable oil) now. The number of gasoline vehicles that support E15 or higher ethanol concentrations is surprisingly low, I can't imagine it being wise to play tricks like this without flex fuel sensors in most of the fleet.
    • It's almost certainly the same as the one next to it. Have a fish around amongst these hits https://www.google.com/search?q=surface+mount+transistor+m33&sca_esv=9cb49794e0b2005d&source=hp&ei=2vJ5aNjTB7Kw0PEPldnS8QM&iflsig=AOw8s4IAAAAAaHoA6qkfmF6XcygtrZ4Vu9f92NXF_RFd&ved=0ahUKEwjYqIPP7MWOAxUyGDQIHZWsND4Q4dUDCA8&uact=5&oq=surface+mount+transistor+m33&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6IhxzdXJmYWNlIG1vdW50IHRyYW5zaXN0b3IgbTMzMgUQIRigATIFECEYoAEyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigAUjKCFAAWABwAHgAkAEAmAHfAaAB3wGqAQMyLTG4AQPIAQD4AQL4AQGYAgGgAuYBmAMAkgcDMi0xoAfMBLIHAzItMbgH5gHCBwMyLTHIBwU&sclient=gws-wiz
    • South Australia, which is hardly as far behind as the rest pf Oz makes out, and who is also not a paragon of progressiveness (read that as over-legislation) in the area of vehicle standards, has this to say on the subject: Adjustable coil-over suspension Aftermarket adjustable coil-over suspension components are suspension units that incorporate an external thread on the main body and corresponding threaded spring saddle that allows the vehicle's suspension height to be varied. If fitting aftermarket or coil-over suspension components you must submit an Application to modify a light motor vehicle form and a report from a light vehicle engineering signatory (LVES).
    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • Those above shitboxes, mediocre and above usually have a turbo strapped to them, hence the slightly higher octane is required.  
×
×
  • Create New...