Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26 Not Firing After Rebuild

RB26TTVL

By RB26TTVL,
in Forced Induction Performance

 Share

Recommended Posts

RB26TTVL Community Regular

RB26TTVL

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, in short, I've had my engine rebuilt, and after reinstalling, can't get it to fire, not even a cough. There's fuel, deffo got compression, but no spark.

Specifics: it's an r33 rb26, in a vl. Wiring was professionally done, and before the rebuild it was all good. Stock computer, no big injectors or anything.

Rebuild was done by a mate, who's done a few race engines, but his first rb26. I have no doubt he's done right. Basic mild rebuild, pistons, rods etc. turbos have been hi flowed, steel wheeled etc. (mate is 500km away, so not keen to trailer there to look over it)

Took it to a local mechanic (country vic) who put it down to an intermittent fault and wouldn't go any further.

Everything I've done on a budget, and after returning from os, haven't got cash to splash around, missus is preggers, so just taking it to an auto elec with an open cheque book is the last thing I'll do.

Any suggestions on where to start, cas, afm? Is there something incredibly stupid that I'm missing?

Any suggestions gratefully accepted!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Adriano Grand Master

Adriano

Posted
Posted

Local guy is an idiot, how is it intermittant if it wont start. If there is injector pulse, then it wont be cas, does the fuel pump come on with ignition for a few seconds, and then again when cranking? Power at the coils, Ecu and igniter/coils earthed? Are you sure there is no spark? You can measure Afm voltage with ignition on at the ecu to confirm wiring and afm's. How do the plugs look? Maybe Double check the cam timing, and while you are at it does it still have the locating pin in teh front of the exhaust cam to align the cas?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
RB26TTVL Community Regular

RB26TTVL

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the replies lads, gives me somewhere to start, would be amazing if it's just those two plugs in the wrong spot. I'll get in and have a crack after work and see where it leads!

Rolls, the wiring was done by a company who do heaps of conversions, this was the first one of this kind, so fingers crossed it hasn't gone tits up there. As said, was previously running as is, so hopefully not!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Back of the inlet manifold there is 2 plugs that can be swapped by accident. Check and swap these. Has happened to me tooThey connect to the coilpack / ignitor loom

Thanks for the replies lads, gives me somewhere to start, would be amazing if it's just those two plugs in the wrong spot.

hahaha Nissan are normally so good about this....but there are indeed 2 plugs that fit together the wrong way around and will stop spark on the 32 gtr loom. you'll always remember after the first time you do it :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites
RB26TTVL Community Regular

RB26TTVL

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Update:

There's power at all the coil packs (just over 10 volt each). There's power at the relays at the ecu when ignition is off (12v) but its still there when the ignition is on, so obv relays aren't actuating, and we have a problem.

Unsure if related, but fuel pump is not coming on with ignition either.

Assume there is a failure in power supply somewhere?

Also, unrelated I think, found that the earth cable to the battery was busted, now fixed.

Ecu and coils/ ign are earthed.

Pulled cas off, locating pin is there, connected the plug and spun with my fingers and got nothing from the injectors. Tried with a second cas for same result. Assume this is also a problem from relays not locking in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

If theres power at the coilpacks, use an led test light to see if they are pulsing when cranking,

If no

Use led test light to see if there is a pulse before the ignitor.

This test will tell u if the ecu is outputting a signal to the ignitor and if the ignitor is recieving and outputting a signal to the coils.

If pulse before ignitor but none out need new ignitor.

No pulse before ignitor ecu, cas or wiring issue

Is the tacho moving when u crank?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LjB123
      R34 Series 1 And 2 Front Reo Difference?

      By LjB123 · Posted

      Awesome to know. I have a Series 1, and When pulling my front bumper off for the first time i realised my reo/crash bar was a bit worse for wear, and was going to try pick up a better one soon just so i can replace it. Someone is selling a full series 2 front bar and brackets for a decent price, so was going to probably reuse my brackets and install the new second hand reo/crash bar. I also have a genuine Altia body kit to do up, spray and put on, and not sure if that will use the series 1 or series 2 brackets for the front bumper, so having both will be handy, and knowing i can drill holes out to make stuff fit between series is also handy to know!
    • Kinkstaah
      R34 Series 1 And 2 Front Reo Difference?

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I should also say that the while they are different the only parts that matter are the center headlight supports and center bar from S1 to S2. The center bar will work, but the S1 has holes that clips go through into the S1 bumper. So if you were super cheap you could simply drill the S2 bar. Same thing with the side/wings. They have slightly different 'clips' but can be made to work. The center headlight brackets however, cannot. This is also where the GTR differs, which has a different center bar, and different headlight supports (to either GTT system), it also has different 'wing' headlight supports which is what I am calling under the headlight. However those CAN be made to work with the GTT Reo for a GTR front bar by a small spacer and a drill/tapping a thread into the reo because the bolt positions are slightly different. So people only really need the center brackets to go between GTT S1, GTT S2, and GTR if you are happy to do some tinkering.
    • dbm7
      forum.r31skylineclub.com down or gone?

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Indeed  😃  Appears the site is back up now (migrated not updated) - kudos @funkymonkey & @PranK
    • GTSBoy
      rb20de neo +t conversion - boost pressure sensor needed?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If this, then this You can't really get away without it. There are hacks that you can do in Nistune, but things are much easier with the sensor than without it. If you're not planning to Nistune the ECU, then stop right now and add it to your plan anyway, because the ECU is going to shit the bed over the missing ABS and TC computers that it expects to see, and you need Nistune to stop it chucking all its toys over the side of the crib.
    • kindaruined
      rb20de neo +t conversion - boost pressure sensor needed?

      By kindaruined · Posted

      hey guys, so ive done a complete +t conversion using mostly stock parts on my rb20de neo r34.  Im wanting to know if a boost pressure sensor is needed? Seems like the engine cuts out when i try to do a pull and I have a feeling its because a boost pressure sensor is missing. I'm using a stock r34 rb25det neo ecu.
×
×
  • Create New...