Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, in short, I've had my engine rebuilt, and after reinstalling, can't get it to fire, not even a cough. There's fuel, deffo got compression, but no spark.

Specifics: it's an r33 rb26, in a vl. Wiring was professionally done, and before the rebuild it was all good. Stock computer, no big injectors or anything.

Rebuild was done by a mate, who's done a few race engines, but his first rb26. I have no doubt he's done right. Basic mild rebuild, pistons, rods etc. turbos have been hi flowed, steel wheeled etc. (mate is 500km away, so not keen to trailer there to look over it)

Took it to a local mechanic (country vic) who put it down to an intermittent fault and wouldn't go any further.

Everything I've done on a budget, and after returning from os, haven't got cash to splash around, missus is preggers, so just taking it to an auto elec with an open cheque book is the last thing I'll do.

Any suggestions on where to start, cas, afm? Is there something incredibly stupid that I'm missing?

Any suggestions gratefully accepted!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/385922-rb26-not-firing-after-rebuild/
Share on other sites

Local guy is an idiot, how is it intermittant if it wont start. If there is injector pulse, then it wont be cas, does the fuel pump come on with ignition for a few seconds, and then again when cranking? Power at the coils, Ecu and igniter/coils earthed? Are you sure there is no spark? You can measure Afm voltage with ignition on at the ecu to confirm wiring and afm's. How do the plugs look? Maybe Double check the cam timing, and while you are at it does it still have the locating pin in teh front of the exhaust cam to align the cas?

Thanks for the replies lads, gives me somewhere to start, would be amazing if it's just those two plugs in the wrong spot. I'll get in and have a crack after work and see where it leads!

Rolls, the wiring was done by a company who do heaps of conversions, this was the first one of this kind, so fingers crossed it hasn't gone tits up there. As said, was previously running as is, so hopefully not!

Back of the inlet manifold there is 2 plugs that can be swapped by accident. Check and swap these. Has happened to me tooThey connect to the coilpack / ignitor loom

Thanks for the replies lads, gives me somewhere to start, would be amazing if it's just those two plugs in the wrong spot.

hahaha Nissan are normally so good about this....but there are indeed 2 plugs that fit together the wrong way around and will stop spark on the 32 gtr loom. you'll always remember after the first time you do it :P

Update:

There's power at all the coil packs (just over 10 volt each). There's power at the relays at the ecu when ignition is off (12v) but its still there when the ignition is on, so obv relays aren't actuating, and we have a problem.

Unsure if related, but fuel pump is not coming on with ignition either.

Assume there is a failure in power supply somewhere?

Also, unrelated I think, found that the earth cable to the battery was busted, now fixed.

Ecu and coils/ ign are earthed.

Pulled cas off, locating pin is there, connected the plug and spun with my fingers and got nothing from the injectors. Tried with a second cas for same result. Assume this is also a problem from relays not locking in.

If theres power at the coilpacks, use an led test light to see if they are pulsing when cranking,

If no

Use led test light to see if there is a pulse before the ignitor.

This test will tell u if the ecu is outputting a signal to the ignitor and if the ignitor is recieving and outputting a signal to the coils.

If pulse before ignitor but none out need new ignitor.

No pulse before ignitor ecu, cas or wiring issue

Is the tacho moving when u crank?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...