Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You can; I do, but they don't work as well as the dedicated forced orbit styles, because if you apply a decent amount of pressure, the pad doesn't orbit very well.

It's miles easier than hand polishing, and delivers surprising results if you're prepared to take a bit of time.

I'm sure one of the resident experts will have a better explanation; but that's it in a nutshell.

Most Orbital Sanders have an orbit in the range of 3-5mm where didicated polishes are around the 8mm mark. Not saying you cant use them, you can! but as above may take a bit longer. If you do use a sander dont use one that has been used on wood as they hold crap inside them and only takes some grit to fall out onto your work and you have induced scratches and swirls :(

Edited by R31Heaven

Its an Random orbital, not an Orbital polisher There RPM rating is higher.

I know its not a polisher. I just thought that it had to high an RPM to polish. Im no expert but I thought polishers had to have a lower RPM so they didnt burn the paint. But looking at the Concours 900 polisher that Waxit Sell and they run 2500-6500rpm. So I guess its not as far out as I thought

There are three types of polishers Random Orbital, Orbital and forced rotation. Random orbitals spin in a spiragraph type pattern so dont actualy spin, so they dont build up heat like a rotary which spin in a a circular motion, this why it is recommended to use an Random Orbital when your a beginer. Foced rotation do both. The Festool above also has a speed dial on top to slow down and speed up.

There are three types of polishers Random Orbital, Orbital and forced rotation. Random orbitals spin in a spiragraph type pattern so dont actualy spin, so they dont build up heat like a rotary which spin in a a circular motion, this why it is recommended to use an Random Orbital when your a beginer. Foced rotation do both. The Festool above also has a speed dial on top to slow down and speed up.

Thanks for the info,always have a doubt about the difference between each other,remembered that at work we used to have a Festo Rotex and when you switch from normal sander to the other mode if you pressed to hard it stopped spinning but it kept moving...wonder what happened with it...

post-52922-0-86146000-1324285259_thumb.jpg

Edited by southern_tango

hi

Both the Festool Random Orbital and Rotex can do wonders to your paint finish.

You can use either one, however make sure you get the right combination of pads and compound or finishing polish to complete the job.

rotex is mighty expensive though

Their slightly lighter than the boschgex150T which i use, but a whole ton more expensive!

as long as your machine wasn't previously used for wood though as previously mentioned :)

you might burn thru the paint either way you need to clean that thing spotless before use. I wouldnt use it myself too risky. a paint job cost too much to stuff around with a cheap sander to save coin.

the short handle will be harder to hold on a car without damage to it

you might burn thru the paint either way you need to clean that thing spotless before use. I wouldnt use it myself too risky. a paint job cost too much to stuff around with a cheap sander to save coin.

the short handle will be harder to hold on a car without damage to it

a random orbital is quite safe at low speeds. rotaries scare the crap out of me, ive never tried one and most likely never really will, my random orbital on forced rotation is more than enough for me :)

but as antonio said - GOOD PADS :)!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...