Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

So I got a Greddy Profec 2 for Christmas off the partner and its proving to be a pain to setup.

I ended up tapping into the vac line that the stock gauge uses (dont know if this is an issue)

Right now it seems to not want to go over 6psi

If anyone knows anything about these then let me know.

Settings I currently have it set to.

SET: 35%

GAIN: 5%

SET GAIN (start boost): 7psi

WARNING: 11psi

LIMITER: 5%

I think there might be a vac leak because when I pull the line off the nipple on the intercooling piping that goes to the solinode and the VAC on my gauge does not change a bit.

On idle sites around probably 20 or so

This makes me think there is already a big enough vac leak that by me doing this does not cause any issues

Here is a picture of what my VAC looks like when coming off throttle. (very bad)

1zf0xfb.jpg

Scrarching my head - so u connected it to the boost gauge sensor? Or the stock boost solenoid near the turbo?

U need to run it from the cooler pipe to the NEW boost controller solenoid then to the wastegate.

Then T into a vacuum/boost source such as the stock boost gauge sensor on firewall and run that one into the cabin into the boost controller

Haha nah sorry

The controller is hooked up to the actuator and the nipple on the cooler piping. All correct.

But my gauge sits at around -20 VAC

When I pull the line off the intercooler piping the VAC does not change is that normal? Or should the vac drop because it's got now an exposed nipple on the intercooler piping?

It also sounds like a sewing machine on boost which leads me to believe its defiantly got a leak somewhere.

But one question as well is for the boost gauge part of the profec I pulled the hose off from the stock vacuume line where it enters the air intake and ran a hose straight to my profec. Is that okay to do?

Can u post up a pic of the vacuum line ur talking about?

The cooler pipe line is before the throttle body so it wint really affect ur gauge reading after the throttle body. If that makes sense?

What do u mean by a sewing machine?

Try upping the gain to 15, set the boost warning to 15psi.

Watch the boost gauge and see if it holds flat or if it oscillates up and down

I will take a pic tomorrow of the vac line it comes out of the back of the intake manifold and normally goes to the stock gauge inside the car. Instead I pulled it off and ran my own pipe from it to my gauge in the car

Just has a sewing machine noise hard to describe but as it spools it has a noise like a sewing machine lol

My phone network is down so I cant get pics.

Right now I fiddled with the setup and the T now goes into the fuel regulator VAC line

I put the stock gauge VAC line back onto the back of the intake manifold.

Anyone know of a simple technique to find a VAC leak?

I tried spraying the hoses with "start ya bastered" to see if I could hear a change in revs but I cant find it

When coming off WOT the gauge shows -30 VAC and the Greddy unti shows -99 VAC

Both of which are the lowest numbers they can display

I think there might be a vac leak because when I pull the line off the nipple on the intercooling piping that goes to the solinode and the VAC on my gauge does not change a bit.

. It won't, I believe this part is under mild pressure at idle. Pull a vac line off after the throttle plate and see if the idle changes.
Just has a sewing machine noise hard to describe but as it spools it has a noise like a sewing machine lol
u sure it's not just the boost controller solenoid clicking away, they can be pretty loud.

I pull hoses off and it does not really change so the VAC at -30 is pretty normal?

I think I had it the wrong way around I was thinking your vac went lower when you had a VAC leak.

So if I had a leak I would expect the number to increas to say -20?

the ticking might be the solenoid then I guess because I have never had one I always used the boost T.

yes its normal to drop lower when you come off WOT, -30 in that case would be fine

you really need to show us how its been hooked up from where to where.

have you tried upping the boost or what? make sure you have the solenoid hooked up right too in terms of in and out

I wish I could get a photo but as I said I am with vodafone so nothing is working haha

The car is running great though.

Boost is tuned for 8psi and 10psi for 2 settings.

It all seems to be running fine now guys

When I get back from the coast I will post up some pictures

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
    • Well the articals keep saying a Q50s (Skyline in Japan) with a new Manual gearbox. I like the talk about the new looks with the round tail lights. I hope they bring back the retro look like they did with the Z
×
×
  • Create New...