Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

Im at that time now in my build where the head work is going to start!

To give you guys some info before i start asking questions -

Build is going to be a track / weekend car

turbo choice was 2860-5's which i know are not the best choice for track because ive read up but i really also want some neat power figure too

so at the end of the day i need the quickest spool up i can and im sure the selection of cams will aid it...

ok i was stuck with alot of gashed to the crap lifters and rusty worn cams in the head so i ventured to nissan and got a quote for lifters at $98 bux each i told them they can keep them lol!

so im forced into buying tomei solid lifters which require small base circle cams.... so the cycle continues .... now i need cams to suit these buckets right?

minimum of 10.25mm lift tomei cams are required for these lifters so i was going to go with the 260deg 10.25mm or the 270deg 10.25mm tomei pro cams now can some 1 send me in the right direction for info on what combo i need? i hear that head modification is needed if i go to big a cam...

im kind of stuck because i dont know which size cam will give what result... like i said earlier i got -5's is any cam adjustable to give better spool ? and i dont wana hear it about the turbo choice lol strictly cam talk / advice only please..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/386580-time-for-camshafts/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yeh issue is i really dont wana spend 2300 bux on just nissan lifters i need to use the small base circle camshafts which start at 10.25mm lift... these suit the tomei solid lifters :( can u elaborate?

Have you looked at the Mines Cams? 252 @ 10.05 mm.

I currently have 270's @ 10.25 on a 2.8 (on -5's), the intake cam is advanced 12 degrees and the power curve still isnt dropping off at 9000 RPM.

The mines cams do come with buckets aswell. You may cough at the price (which is why alot of people don't run them), but when adding up the cams + buckets, they're not that much more exxy.

Have you looked at the Mines Cams? 252 @ 10.05 mm.

I currently have 270's @ 10.25 on a 2.8 (on -5's), the intake cam is advanced 12 degrees and the power curve still isnt dropping off at 9000 RPM.

The mines cams do come with buckets aswell. You may cough at the price (which is why alot of people don't run them), but when adding up the cams + buckets, they're not that much more exxy.

http://www.mines-wave.com/E_09/CATALOG/P_Eg_CAMSHAFT_SHORE_Pro2_E.html

these the ones you are talking about yeh? 350-400 awkw possible?? i just want the parts i put in capeable of reaching more if i choose also ...

http://www.mines-wav...ORE_Pro2_E.html

these the ones you are talking about yeh? 350-400 awkw possible?? i just want the parts i put in capeable of reaching more if i choose also ...

Have a look at Nismoid's car. 365RWKW on stock cams.

Ash lol fuuuuu i stand corrected crank and valves are still standard cant use stock cams the buckets and cams are f*ked ???!

Look i just want the best Option to use since i cant use genuine bukets

Have you looked at the Mines Cams? 252 @ 10.05 mm.

I currently have 270's @ 10.25 on a 2.8 (on -5's), the intake cam is advanced 12 degrees and the power curve still isnt dropping off at 9000 RPM.

The mines cams do come with buckets aswell. You may cough at the price (which is why alot of people don't run them), but when adding up the cams + buckets, they're not that much more exxy.

If your that far advanced and the power isnt dropping off at that rpm then those cams have dropped your dynamic comp that much it probly won't really react to much cam timing movement at all. I think it would be a wise choice to go to the smaller duration 252 @10mm lift. I would think that you would gain responses without loosing too much top end.

To the original poster I would recommend the same cams if you must go with that bucket size change.

Small duration, no overlap and as much lift as you can.

I love that comment because in a variable cam engine overlap is exactly what you want at low to medium revs!

But I agree with small duration and lots of lift - as long as the valve train can handle the ramps/inertia

What? You mean huge duration isn't good for a street car? :woot:

Depends on how much power your street car is making and what the turbocharger configuration is.

rob82...why do you want overlap for at low revs with a highly restrictive exhaust side?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...