Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well the problem isn't just at idle sometimes... My car could be in gear and at about 2000rpm and it still happens...

I'm thinking a bad connection somewhere? Like a bad earth?

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Ah ok.

Yeah it could be. Check the connections to the alternator. There should be a 2 pin (from memory) connector thats for the activation of the altenator. Check all the earths etc as well. My Girlfriends mum has a similar problem with her mazda 3. Sometimes the battery light comes on and theres no charge from the alternator.

See what you can find. Just trace as many wires as you can. If you've got a multi meter to test stuff as well probably a good idea

It was already pointing at an alternator problem, changing the battery pretty much proves it.

Could be the wiring to the alternator, could be the alternator itself. Taking it to an auto-electrician will be the quickest way to tell.

I've just done a test with a multi meter. Here's the results.

Car off 12.25v

Car on 13.9-14.1v

Revving the car 14.1v

All high and low beam with ac on full 13.8-13.9v

After 5mins 13.75v

Car off again 12.5v

From the readings above it seems like the alternator is doing what it's meant to be doing.

But for some reasons. I can't seem to do a battery drain test... I'm not getting any readings at all. Just a negative sign and I set it on 10A on the meter.

I think I've just completed a battery drain test. It reads about 0.20, but once I took out the LED globe in boot, it reads about 0.17-0.18. Pic below, did I do it right? lol

Anyway, I cleaned up all my terminals and fixed up my earth kit (which one of the bolt was a little loose (could be the problem)) and cleaned up a couple of the earth points.

And now the car seem to run fine and starts fine again.

It is idling at about 900 and the voltage reading on the MFD is much much more straighter than before (was spiking up and down), and when I turn highbeam on while idling, the car still runs pretty smooth without wanting to stall.

So I think I might have fixed the problem. Will keep you updated :D

post-40415-0-56036000-1325562298_thumb.jpg

I don't like like that reading 12.25v to me that indicates a flat battery. Any reading below 12.65v is an indication of less than full charge, I like to see mine between 12.80 and 13.10v after resting over night. and there in lies the problem with measuring state of charge by using a multi meter to test open circuit voltage, to get the best accuracy the battery needs to rest up to 24h after charging/ discharging for the cells to equalize.

Pull the battery and put it on a charger over night then take it to an Auto Electrician to test.

12.66 is just OK

I have two standard 330 CCA batteries, one is a little bit sus and one is 6 months old and is in great condition, both are the same brand and model, the sus one is in my car which hasn't been driven in two days and reads 12.84v the other came off the charger about two weeks ago and reads 12.95v

so the 12.66v reading is here nor there, what the sparky will do is connect it up to a heavy load for a couple of seconds and watch how the low the voltage drops and how it rebounds as the load is removed, this will give a good indication on the health of your battery.

Edited by Missileman

A 6 cell battery at 2.1v per cell = 12.6v. with car off this is a good reading.

You need to get a carbon pile test done to tell you the health of your battery. mine had 12ish volts but was wrecked. only load testing would show this. Or checking voltage while cranking

OP have you checked the alternator wiring yet?

After thinking the problems is fixed, it is back again....

What else can I check?...

I've got an earth kit in the car, which connects the battery's neg, engine earth, chassis together and I've checked each of those groundings and don't seem to be a problem.

As for the alternator, it seem to be putting put 13.8-14.3v so...

HELP! :S

Ok so the alternator is charging fine but your battery is still going flat yes?

So after turning the car off it starts ok but if left overnight or so the battery is flat? sorry if I've misunderstood just making sure I know where your coming from

Yes, the alternator seem to be charging fine. And no I don't think the battery is flat.. Most of the times it starts the car, but might take a couple of tries.

Because when I last checked the battery today, it was about 12.45v.

And the problems still occurred tonight; when I turn highbeam on, the voltage would drop from 14v to 12.5v and rev would drop to about 500, headunit will restart, MFD will restart but the car will eventually recover.

I'm really thinking I have bad grounding somewhere...

But I can't seem to find anymore earth points... there is one that I can't really get to and that's underneath the engine and it connects straight to the battery's neg.

hmmm yeah sounds like a bit of a wiring problem. Does it only do it with high beams or any high electrical load?

If its only your high beams then there must be a problem with the wiring for the high beams, like you said the earth for the high beams may be dodgy. The 34's had Xenons that get removed during compliance yeah? Maybe they did something dodgy when that happened and its showing up now?

Just guesses but if it is ONLY your high beams causing the problem then Id work backwards from there

Well.. nah, it's not only highbeam, it's foglights too (they are factory but I've added them myself). As for xenons, I sourced a pair of headlights that's still got the factory ballast. But yes, my old headlights were converted to H1's.

So since it's any high electrical load that causes it, it has to be a connection somewhere...

But I do remember me dropping my AFM while taking the intakes pipes and stuff of to replace my blown gasket...

it just seems a bit odd that its causing the revs to drop and your head unit to restart. So was anything changed/broken/swapped/touched before this started happening?

So high beams and foglights? Check for a shared earth I guess.

so when you say the car recovers, does that mean the revs drop etc then slowly the revs pick back up and voltage returns to normal (14ish volts)?

Ill have to have a think about that one

Hmmm... It all started when my battery went flat after leaving music on for a few hours. We jump started the car (something coulda possibly happened there).

And yeah, the car would be idling at 800-900, then if I turn either of those lights on, my revs would drop to 500 for a few seconds, voltage drops to 12 or something, headunit restarts, MFD restarts, airbag light would come on (like normally when you start the car), then a few seconds later, everything will return to normal.

Revs would go back to 800-900, voltage will go back to 14 or so.

Also, another symptom of this is, when I'm idling at the lights with my indicators on, the whole dash light will dim with the indicators, which means even the indicators are causing problems, but I guess the load isn't as much as highbeam, so headunit and MFD stays on :S

you can check your earths if you have a multimeter by putting the negative on the chassis (at a good earth point or on the battery negative would work) and then probing the earth wires at your headlight circuits checking for resistance. If you get a high resistance on your earth circuits then that might be your problem. Basically if you know a thing or two about using a multimeter I would just go around checking as much as you can.

If you want some help doing this I can tell you what to check for, but really it sounds like your drawing a hell of alot of current which might not be so easy to check for, unless you know someone with one of these: Linky

Measuring the current draw will help alot when putting the high beams on

I went through the engine bay again today, I found another 2 earths, one on left fender, one on right fender. I cleaned them both, sanded it back and the car seems to be back to normal again... So I don't know lol

What are those 2 earths for? I think the driver's side might be for headlights and something else.

Guess I'll just have to see how it goes again.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...