Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gonna ditch the hicas soon thanks to a few scares at speed with the hicas wanting to control the car instead of me...

Does anyone know a trick to stop the hicas light on the dash from illuminating once its removed, such as connecting a wire between some of the terminals that go to the hicas computer?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/38692-no-hicas-what-about-the-light/
Share on other sites

You could take the cluster out n short the hicas light wires.

Other than that find the hicas sensor and bypass it from memory i think its in your boot, but don't quote me on that.

isn't it connected to the ECU, might start affecting the way the car behaves. The Blitz HICAS kit (which allows you to stop HICAS kicking in comes with a plug which allows you to bypass it, find one of these and figure out what its doing :O

Not sure about the R33 (as they are electronic 4ws) but my R32 has had no probs with the light when i diconnected the HICAS. I completely removed the rear steerign rack, lines etc, and my power steering light is still functioning for instances where the steering fluid may be low etc etc. But removing the HICAS 4ws by way of a chromemoly rear bar has not meant my R32s steerign warning light is constantly illuminated.

I has East Coast Suspension install th ebar just before i changed the ride height and susp settings on my car, so i cant tell you exactly what they did, but it is possible to get working properly...another option is to track down the rear cradle off an R32 without HICAS, or have a look at a non Hicas R32

i was to understand once locking the system the system is disabled inc warning lamps ? as for light poping up might not be a good thing check that your power steering reservoir is working properly mine started to fail due to electrical problem .

I've got a lock diff [complete with all the alloy struts and braces] and a Momo steering wheel on mine, the HICAS is a non functioning accessory. I took the bulb out. I'd guess 30 minutes to get the dash and instrument cluster out, you only need a Phillips head screwdriver.

I think there is a 'how to' thread in SAU on doing this if your unsure.

I always check my fluids, its something that was automatically done by all thinking owners before warning lights were relied on to protect the idiots [thats why they call them idiot lights].

Its easy to get the dash out anyway............

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
×
×
  • Create New...