Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

We're finally getting around to installing the Ikeya front roll centre spacers on the our R32 GTR but after removing the front lower control arm ball joint we're at the stage of needing to remove the studs that are pressed into the hub (see attached pictures if this doesn't make sense).

We need to remove these studs and use the Ikeya supplied hardware as the factory studs become too short with the added thickness of the spacers

Is there a way to remove these without taking the hub off the car and having to use a hydraulic press or similar?

We'd like to have the roll centre spacers on the car but don't know if we quite have the motivation to remove

the front hubs just to put these out.

Apologies if this has been covered elsewhere, I did a search but could only see info relating to removing the ball joints as opposed to the studs that hold the ball joint on.

Cheers chaps!

img1972b.jpg

img0224ge.jpg

img0226ehi.jpg

img0225zu.jpg

img0227wh.jpg

New hardware to be used

img0228yp.jpg

same, I screwed the nut back on and bashed them out. even safer than using the same method on a wheel stud because there is no bearing getting f**ked up at the same time.

What do you think about the ikeya adjusters? I wasn't convinced because they only move the lower arm point, not the upper arm point as well.

Cheers chaps, we dropped the ball joint out threaded the nut back on and dominated them with a trusty old claw hammer.

Had to get the angle grinder and cut off wheel into action and cut about 15mm of thread off the studs to clear the CVs out the way out.

Holy smokes has it messed with out alignment :)

Had some extreme toe in couldn't really move it up the driveway. Did some dodgy string line and steel rule adjusting though until we drop it in for an alignment.

Apart from the front toe what other settings would the roll centre adjusters have changed?

(Yes hardware is not tight yet)

photo84h.jpg

photo83.jpg

Did you measure roll centre from stock ride height first then compare to a lowered height? If you havent then adding a spacer of random length is just a stab in the dark and may not achieve anything.

  • Like 1
  • 3 years later...

Ollie,

Why not just pull the CV spline straight out of the hub so as to move it out of the way? Nothing is holding it in place.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello First, I apologize if this is not the correct forum. Let me know and I will move it to the correct one. I'm having a problem with the tachometer on my Skyline R33 with an RB25DET Neo engine. I'll tell you from the beginning. I'll tell you from the beginning. I have the RB25DET Neo engine installed in a Nissan Patrol GU, with a Link G4X control unit specifically for that engine,  and I have fitted a Skyline R33 tachograph to the original GU dashboard, but it doesn't work properly. I have the tachometer connected to the positive and negative terminals of the GU panel's wiring, and the signal cable is connected directly to the ECU output pin, but the rpm fluctuates widely. Can anyone tell me if the output signal from an R33 ECU is the same as the output signal from an R34 ECU, or if the voltage and signal type are different? Regards and thanks.  
    • I guess it was the thought about "Oh if I were to drive this everyday". Then no, SL500 I wouldn't really consider lmao. 
    • Yeah actually really fair point. Idk what I was thinking when looking at the SL500. Now that I think about it, I feel like I would have more enjoyment out of a shitbox that I would need to repair than some fancy merc. Although I must admit the SL500 does look quite nice. My bad hahaha.
    • 100% Also "Not wanting to spend money" is THE WORST IDEA IMAGINABLE when coming to a project car of any kind. They EXIST to BURN MONEY. Sure, gas money is a thing. A stock car with the worst fuel economy ever sold would probably be cheaper than modifying a car with FREE petrol for the life of your ownership of it, lol.
    • Amount of time you're being observed by law enforcement is so minute, that you could be a dumb shit 90% of your driving time, and never lose a demerit. You could also be the best driver ever and still get hit with a fine.   When you realise how quickly everything turns from "Wee, we're having fun!" To "oh f**k oh f**k oh f**k", you start to realise the only way to be a good driver, is to not be doing anything dumb or unexpected by normies on the road. You want to go fast, go to the track. Someone there in a 1990s slow POS will also show you how bad of a driver you are as they lap 10 seconds per lap quicker than you can in a car that should be considerably faster.
×
×
  • Create New...