Chasing That Stock Sound

[SiR_RB]

That's one dodgy screamer pipe

Firstly I would be getting your screamer/dump pipe sorted

And secondly a decent boost controller - even a turbotech one from eBay will be fine

Thirdly a touch up tune to be safe.

THEN start going near redline !

[chris_82]

I use a Turbosmart T Boost on mine, cost me 50 bucks, its holding the boost where i want it at 8psi.

Ps can i have ur screamer pipe lolz

[kitto]

I can see this engine not lasting too long lol.

[Bsa]

Lucky I have a spare one

[GH05T]

Sir_rb

Yeah screamer pipe is coming off, gonna be replaced with a bellmouth dump,

Btw I'm not going anywhere ne'er redline, I'm making max boost at about 5500 rpm which can cut power or popping. Like I said I don't want to even hold max boost let along push on in rpm.

Chris_82

Troll much?

And kitto why is it not gonna last? I intend to get the thing set up properly, fuel seems to be sorted, spark many I still have some work, doggy screamer pipe aside I hope to have it running safely. I never give it a hard time, I may hit max boost once every now and then but when I do I want it to be safe.

[Rolls]

but when I do I want it to be safe.

then take the stupid bleed valve off

[SargeRX8]

I must have Vacuum leak somewhere in my car but have no f**king idea how to find it. I done an intake pressure and fixed the obvious leak I had. My idle when clutching in is still rough, even if I went no where near any boost and with the stock bov. Startup is also rough, but it seems more consistent with temperatures rather than a vac leak. I also noticed if i'm on the brake and the air con is on then I switch it off, I can feel it in the brake pedal, it goes in a tiny bit more... f**k vacuum leaks dammit.

[Rolls]

could be a gasket

[SargeRX8]

I thought of it but there is absolutely no other symptoms to point to a gasket leak. If it was, which would you suspect?

My only symptoms are the idle when clutch in. idle after that is perfect, no hunting etc.

[GH05T]

Mine was identical.

Rough start, wouldn't hold idle untill u blip the throttle back up then it would hold but rough, sometimes misfiring got to I drivable when hot. As u can see I'm still chasing problems but that vac leak made a massive difference. I just heard mine, wiggled pipes untill I heard the slight suck/ hiss change, flipped the pipe over and woah massive split.

I'm going to go through and replace most or all of my hoses, one a week kinda thing see if anything improves randomly.

Weird tat our symptoms are identical, but if you find any other causes let me know so I can check mine but I'm gonna do a few more things suggested here

[GH05T]

Ok well I wound the controller (which I will still dissconnect) back heaps, I assume they don't finally stop?

Anyway it now boosts at .9 bar happily

Will remove it and yet it when it gets hot again and see if their are any missfires.

[Rolls]

I personally had the wrong gasket installed by the previous owner in between the sandwiched halves of the intake manifold, was leaking badly at cylinder 3 and 4

[GH05T]

Ok well I wound the controller (which I will still dissconnect) back heaps, I assume they don't finally stop?

Anyway it now boosts at .9 bar happily

Will remove it and yet it when it gets hot again and see if their are any missfires.

Also the waste gate opened properly at that boost which I could hear from the screamer so atleast I know it's working from their.

Thinking of getting a propper electronic boost controller like an eboost2

Edited January 9, 2012 by GH05T

[Harey]

i really dont think you need an expensive boost controller. As Rolls said do some research on wastegates and boost control. An expensive boost controller will not magically allow you to run any boost pressure you want. If you are getting the right boost pressure with your current boost controller on minimum then basically it isnt doing anything and you should simply remove it and run the hose directly to the wastegate.

The only real advantage of expensive electronic boost controllers is that you can built boost more aggressively, have multiple boost settings (all above wastegate setting which you currently said is 0.9 bar) and sometimes they can help hold boost at high rpm.

A turbotech boost tee has been proven time and time again to control boost very very well.

I personally run without a boost controller and have excellent boost control just using the wastegate.

[Rolls]

Thinking of getting a propper electronic boost controller like an eboost2

Why? You are running the boost you want to run aren't you? Why do you need a new controller? The one you have now works fine?

[chris_82]

I bought my sister one of those Turbotech controllers for her WRX for about $30. It was spiking to 15psi then bleeding back to 10.

Or u could always go with a simple set up like mine below. Turbosmart, comes with a bracket for a neater install.