Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Already said, but a new DE Motor are as cheap as they come now. Even a DE NEO can be had for under $1k at times.

Stock air box is the best way to go on an N/A Skyline. I'm not entirely sure with the R33 without looking for a pic, but the air feed on the N/A R34's is better than most custom set ups for an N/A.

A K&N Panel in the stock box, with a cold air feed going into the box if necessary, is going to be more than ample. An N/A Skyline isn't going to surpass the capability of a K&N Panel.

  • 2 weeks later...

When i removed my panel filter and installed my stainless intake pipe i noticed a bit of oil gathering inside it. + 1 for the catch can bro, but extend your piping into the empty space where the snorkel would have feed down into.

  • 5 weeks later...

With the tutorial on moving your CAI to behind the front bumper, I have a few questions.

1. Wont water collect in it being so low and un protected?

2. will it collect a lot of dust being low?

well i guess you could say why bother with a skyline of any type whilst a full time student etc, but yeah i'd be leaning towards the new motor option, the n/a rb25 is worth about as much as an rb30 lol

where r these cheap nas for the price of an rb30,

Already said, but a new DE Motor are as cheap as they come now. Even a DE NEO can be had for under $1k at times.

Stock air box is the best way to go on an N/A Skyline. I'm not entirely sure with the R33 without looking for a pic, but the air feed on the N/A R34's is better than most custom set ups for an N/A.

A K&N Panel in the stock box, with a cold air feed going into the box if necessary, is going to be more than ample. An N/A Skyline isn't going to surpass the capability of a K&N Panel.

+1

IMHO - The K&N or any quality high flow panel filter will be more than good enough. Even on a lightly modded turbo model the highflow panel filter will still be more than enough.

I was a student when I bought my R34. Panel filter and a high flow cat gave it a bit more perk in the mid to high range. No difference in the low end.

So what gave the idea to my previous owner of the N/A rb25 to put a POD filter on it?

I'm guessing little knowledge... Don't know.

One thing to keep in mind is Nissan engineers (any car manufacturer) that work on power trains have unlimited dyno time and are highly trained/educated. Joe Blow thinks a pod filter is better and bolts it on....

Funny thing is pod filters are actually cheaper than all the complex piping and airbox systems.... So why would Nissan bother putting such an expensive and complex setup if it was crap in the 1st place....

  • 4 months later...

My mechanic told me that Iv'e got an oil leak problem with my engine and the cost effective preventative measure against any possible damage was to install the catch can. I'm not 100% on what the exact problem is aside from being told that I'll have to rebuild most of the engine /sigh.

Pump like 3 bottles of or wynns engine oil stop leak into that sucker :yes:

Edited by Keith w

I'm guessing little knowledge... Don't know.

One thing to keep in mind is Nissan engineers (any car manufacturer) that work on power trains have unlimited dyno time and are highly trained/educated. Joe Blow thinks a pod filter is better and bolts it on....

Funny thing is pod filters are actually cheaper than all the complex piping and airbox systems.... So why would Nissan bother putting such an expensive and complex setup if it was crap in the 1st place....

Same reason they put all those resonators on there, induction noise (although the resonators also allow any "extra" air in the intake somewhere to go when you step off the throttle).

Why did Ford put a large pod on the supercharged V8 GT? My guess is they needed a shit load of air going in there and didn't have the space for a massive panel filter.

Same reason they put all those resonators on there, induction noise (although the resonators also allow any "extra" air in the intake somewhere to go when you step off the throttle). Why did Ford put a large pod on the supercharged V8 GT? My guess is they needed a shit load of air going in there and didn't have the space for a massive panel filter.

Very very different cars from factory, can't really compare them. You're talking a 335kw V8 compared to a ~180kw straight 6. Ford also designed it to work properly with a good heat shield and a cold air intake, something that most people who bolt on a pod filter don't bother doing.

Actually I wasn't comparing engines, just stating that pods are quite useful if implemented correctly... and that they can be a requirement when a panel filter is not up to the task. In the end, the engine will only take as much air it needs so no harm in getting the largest filter you can.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
    • And now the bloody flapper is jammed slightly open. Lazy as all f**k in 3rd-5th (very hard to convince it to make much boost before you run out of revs), but will make 12 psi in 1st, which shouldb't be possible with a 5 psi spring and controller set to <10 psi. Methinks I'm lucky it jammed where it did, rather than fully closed. It's actually a well weird situation. Careful examination of what's happening in the back of that housing when the gearbox comes out and all the other stuff (injectors, AFM retune) is supposed to be done, next week.
×
×
  • Create New...