Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just installed H1 8000K xenon headlights (lo-beams) and tested them out tonight. I didn't receive anyone flashing me or anything but when i walked out of the car and stood a few metres infront of it, i couldn't even see my car and was just blinded! When i'm driving down the motorways, all the signs light up from AGES away and it looks like i have high-beams on constantly.

Could anyone please help me out and let me know if it's normal, or how to adjust the intensity so it's a lot more... "mild" ??

I have a feeling that if i drive it around for a longer period of time, i'll get flashed, beeped at and maybe even pulled over by the cops cos it's too bright :\

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388047-hids-too-bright-help/
Share on other sites

You should have a little knob/switch with about 3 settings on the right hand side of the steering wheel near the bonnet release leaver, this dips/raises the lights.

That said, 8000k is very bright and dipping them probably wont help all that much, i believe 4700k or so is optimal for the best driver vision and minimal distraction to other drivers.

Wrong!

4700k are brighter than 8000k HIDs. Also you will find that 8000k have poor penetration in bad weather conditions.

The lower the Kelvin rating the high the Lumen (brightness) is.

Just lower the beam of your light enough so you dont get "as" blinded.

Wrong!

4700k are brighter than 8000k HIDs. Also you will find that 8000k have poor penetration in bad weather conditions.

The lower the Kelvin rating the high the Lumen (brightness) is.

Just lower the beam of your light enough so you dont get "as" blinded.

I was under the impression that the lower the K rating the less (glarey?) it would be for oncoming traffic? Lower K rating also means a more yellow/orange light and higher rating means a more Blue light? Although a more yellow light will penetrate better than the bluer type.

Am i close?

3000k Yellow

4500k White with yellow hue

5000k Pure White

6000k White with blue/purple hue

8000k White with distinct blue hue

10000k Strong blue light

Above that, you are getting into UV/black light territory.

For a street car anything above 6000k is pointless, 4500-5000k has the best light output vs penetration.

mine are similar, catches every piece of reflective tape/signage.

good to see the back of cop cars from far away.

and mine arnt set too high.

have travelled behind mates who havnt complaid, and when asked said it was ok.

i have LB 10000k 35w hid kit and the 100w 6000k kit for hb :) the 10k arent as bright but there ok and wen i do country driveing the 600k hids rape everything :)

also like sarge said the 10000k are really only good for looks there ok in the rain so i installed some driveing lights to counter them

It is my impression when I was researching them for my tow car & replacements for the KHR30, 4700k was Daylight, 6000k was Super White and anything past that was blue - purple the higher up the Kelvin scale you go and Kelvin is a temperature measure ONLY, nothing to do with brightness of a particular globe rating.

I have genuine Philips 6000K HID in my Jackaroo and cruising at night, Sydney ~ Melbourne & Sydney ~ Gold Coast they are without a doubt genuine 100kph plus lights on low beam and the high beam isn't much advantage over low. Better and more light with a good set of driving lights with good quality globes.

My advice is not buy sh!t ebay ex China/Hong Kong brands for $50 odd dollars. Their wiring kits & ballasts are sub standard and will often catch fire when your least expecting it & loosing the car is a very high possibility.

If they are blinding, lower the beam slightly until you find your not looking straight into the beam, irrespective of your globe choice, but adjusting to NSW RTA specs is absurd. A guide for me is when you're following another car about 20-30m behind and if your low beam isn't above the boot line, or bottom of rear windscreen they are adjusted properly enough to not distract.

JMHO

my lights in the 34 are idjustable :) took my Fn ariund to wire em in but they work a treat :thumbsup: i brought both my hid kits of ebay but yer you get wat you pay for my kits i didnt get any change from 160 '.' but they pay for them self being about to spot things along the road and police cars hi vis stand out like a DD boobies :rolleyes:

A lot of new cars these days come out with 6000k HID standard. Im pretty sure thats the legal limit aswell anything above that is illegal for low beam anyway and at own risk. I put 8000k in my 32 for LB, im not to concerned about the visibility issue as much, they work a treat and light up signs and centre line mint. I just hope i dont get caught pretty much.

They were pointing a little high like suwidji said, but i just adjusted the bulbs down and now they dont flash on coming cars. There is typically 2 or 3 screws in the headlight cases behing the headlight you tweak to adjust the bulb direction. Have a play around, its an easy fix.

From what ive read, Nytsky is right, 4500 to 5000k is the best viewing performance range. I think higher like 6000k 8000k you see signs etc better.

just one thing unless ur car has projection HID's there not legal also it must have wipers because water will trow the light , its all bull shut but thats how they will get ya ,, as projection hid's have a very sharp cut off line to stop the dazzle youtube it to see wat i mean :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...