Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

[quote name=ClutchBurndout-:(' timestamp='1326786705' post='6192170]

coilpacks

my worry is, why wouldnt he fix it himself? some lecky tape around the coilpacks is a quick fix... why would you sell a car with issues?

Cause he didn't know what the issue was?

Not everyone knows what causes a misfire in Skylines.

Just a quick reference, splitfire is the only correct fitting replacement, all the others only use 1 bolt and sit slightly angled as the bolt holes are wrong.

Bulshit. I installed YJ on my RB25neo a few weeks ago- perfect fit, sits straight and uses 2 bolts per coil.

hey guys!

bought the car, im in LOVE. i was about to order splitfires tomorrow, but i stumbled across a brand called superspark? the boys at autobarn sell them and they recommended them as a direct replacment for the coilpacks?? 1 guys uses them in hes rb25det and he loves them, they are 495 a set...

has anyone heard of these??

Edited by soultz

Bulshit. I installed YJ on my RB25neo a few weeks ago- perfect fit, sits straight and uses 2 bolts per coil.

maybe they finally pulled their finger out and got some made properly. it was 4 years ago that i went through all this garbage with my car.

<br />just bought some yellow jackets! cant wait for them to arrive!<br /><br /><br /><br />does anyone know how to change them over?? i cant seem to find where to start lol??<br />
<br /><br /><br />

Do you know how to expose the place between the cam covers where the coils live? Cross over pipe off, cover off, undo coil retaining bolts and disconnect the wiring plugs (bloody carefuly because they go brittle in the heat). It's easy. You need 8 an 10mm sockets and spanners, pliers for some of the hose clamps, etc etc. Only takes an hour or so.

Been using them for about a year now perfect fit with no problems also double check your ignition timing too advanced can cause a similar problem when air is cool and dense

just bought some yellow jackets! cant wait for them to arrive!

does anyone know how to change them over?? i cant seem to find where to start lol??

I have also been using yellow jacket coils for a year no problems at all. Just make sure you more then an hours time and also change some of the hoses on the cross pipe they are most Likely getting old as well.

There's a guide here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/42819-rb25det-changing-the-spark-plugs/

If you're changing the coilpacks, consider changing or re-gaping the spark plugs (depending on your future mods etc).

Took me more than an hour haha.. the intake pipe going into the throttle body will get in the way of one of the coils as it crosses directly over it.

You can either remove a few pipe clamps/bolts and move it out of the way or completely remove it to access the coilpack.

It's not too hard to get at the coils.

Mine arrived today but I had them delivered to work...and I work from home on Wednesdays....

I got one of the guys I work with to bring them home as he only lives 10 minutes away so I get em at about 630. They should be in by 8.

Also a tip, leave the valley cover off. That way you don't have to stuff around with it every time you want to change your plugs.

Edited by Cowboy1600

Yeeeeehaaaaa!

My problem is fixed and for the first time since I have owned the car (nearly 10 months) it's running flawlessly. I pump it up to 11psi and floor it and it just pulls.

Here's hoping you get the same results.

its akways a good ideah to mate to do your plugs to ngk BCPR6ES

also while its all out do a compression test

I put a set of Iridiums I had kicking about in at the same time.

Compression test can go root a boot. I'll do that if I ever have any concerns that it might be down. The car doesn't get driven hard enough or often enough for me to want to do a preventative comp test.

Just a quick reference, splitfire is the only correct fitting replacement, all the others only use 1 bolt and sit slightly angled as the bolt holes are wrong.

Just a quick reference, you're very, very wrong.

YJs went in perfectly. No angle, bolts lined up perfectly. Fitting was a breeze.

hey guys,

installed 5/6 coil packs tonight, i was working on installing them and the 6th one had a different bracket for the screws to go into, 5 were the same direct fit, where as the 6th one was completely different therefore i could not put it in :( so ive contacted yellow jackets and am awaiting a reply...

on the good side....MY MISSFIRING PROBLEM IS FIXED!!! i changed the 5/6 and used a old one to test the packs and no more misssfiring! so happy!

thank you to everyone who helped aswell :)

i just hope i get to fit the last one soon :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...