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Just do a solid lifter conversion. Get machined shims. Spoke to SK about it, said the most time consuming part of it would be to make sure all the measurements are spot on:

If you know what you are doing the solid lifter conversion is pretty easy, you don't even have to remove the head. You basically just remove cams, then a follower, open up the hydraulic cylinder and stick a machined shim in there of the right thickness. Put it back in and do the next one. The time consuming bit is determining the shim thickness for setting the clearances.

I'm considering doing it when i go for my rebuild, as later on i will want to run some very aggressive cams anyway, so either way solid lifters will need to be a go sooner or later.

Or you could always get propper solid lifters from Tomei, i think nengun has them for like $650-700 delivered.

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what about putting gtr cams into a 25 head?

while second hand cams will cost next to nothing, you may get a shock when you find out the total cost (parts and labour) to convert the hydraulic lash adjusters to solid. in fact, a 2nd-hand GT-R head will probably be a cheaper option.

Anywhere from 1200 to 1500 for a head, and up to 2500 complete with turbos and all inlet bits, whereas a regrind from Tighe cams is the best option for hydraulic lifters and will improve on the 300+rwkw you can do on a stock 25 engine. It would have to be a serious engine and power target to want more than that.

while second hand cams will cost next to nothing, you may get a shock when you find out the total cost (parts and labour) to convert the hydraulic lash adjusters to solid. in fact, a 2nd-hand GT-R head will probably be a cheaper option.

Good luck getting a 26 head to fit on a 20. Not sure about the 25(26 head fitting on a 25 bottom end), but i'd assume it wouldn't be hassle free. Just use the 20/25 head, or if you really want to use a 26 head just use a complete 26 or go an RB26/30 :(

But yea, if big power is your goal, then solid lifters are worth doing, as you will need to do them sooner or later when using a 20 or 25 engine, unless you don't want to run aggressive cams

26/30 FTW :). All coming together right now.

not everyone wants to go down that path tho :(

20's aren't as bad as the 25 and 26, and 25/26/30 lovers make them out to be :( Just depends on your power target

not everyone wants to go down that path tho :(

20's aren't as bad as the 25 and 26, and 25/26/30 lovers make them out to be :( Just depends on your power target

They are when you consider a 350rwkw RB30DET spools the same as a stock turbo'd RB20DET. :)

They are when you consider a 350rwkw RB30DET spools the same as a stock turbo'd RB20DET. :D

some people want to be different and see what the ole 20 can do ;)

With that logic, why not just go a big block V8 and turbo/blow it? ;) Run, say, 6psi, and say "well, there is virtually no lag, and it makes a bundle of power so ner :dry:"

Mind you i have thought about a 30DETT, and may very well do it sometime. But if i do it now, i will still be returning to the 20/24DETT project later on to see what it can do.

Anywho, this is an RB20 thread, please don't come in and bash 20's and try and convert the 20 lovers :yes:

There's no bashing of rb20 lovers. Its no fun as they are too easy to catch. hehe :dry:

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hehe.. The RB30DET IS different. :yes:

More rb20 mugs than there are rb30det.

RB20DETT on the other hand.. You should rig that thing up sequentially. :D

Only having a little joke.. Don't take it personally. ;) <note the 50 smileys>

lol i know, im just takin the piss too.

Na sequential setup is a load of shit. This current setup has shown way too much potential on the dyno to ignore. Im running figures @ 13psi that would normally take 16-18psi to hit. And the lag isn't all that bad either. Sure, it is laggy compared to a stocker or something, but i like it, let's me control the power a bit more.

Hence(with my current setup) my "activity" in this thread, as im contemplating the solid lifter conversion and 26 cams, then later on some 270+ and 9.5mm+ cams. That way i will already have the solid lifters done, so all i'd need to do is upgrade the rest of the valvetrain (i.e springs) and bob's my uncle.

This is about when the village idiot comes running in screaming "RB20 POWAH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!'

impeccable timing... lol

Hey, they have potential, there is no doubt about that. Just that noone has seriously pushed the edge of the envelope with them, that is, untill i get some serious money happening :D

lol i know, im just takin the piss too.

Na sequential setup is a load of shit. This current setup has shown way too much potential on the dyno to ignore. Im running figures @ 13psi that would normally take 16-18psi to hit. And the lag isn't all that bad either. Sure, it is laggy compared to a stocker or something, but i like it, let's me control the power a bit more.

Hence(with my current setup) my "activity" in this thread, as im contemplating the solid lifter conversion and 26 cams, then later on some 270+ and 9.5mm+ cams. That way i will already have the solid lifters done, so all i'd need to do is upgrade the rest of the valvetrain (i.e springs) and bob's my uncle.

Not is all waste.. The gear you mentioned can be run in the RB25 should you decide you've had a play its time to step up its displacement.

i have done the gtr cam upgrade, matched with solid lifter conversion and HKS gtr valve springs, u do loose a little in down low torque but gain in midrange and top end, but it does depend on ur turbo blah blah, i have cam gears to 2 deg retard on exhaust 1 deg advance on the inlet. im looking to fit rb26 poncams 260 duration 9.15mm lift intake and exhaust

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