Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

More than happy to take you for a run but if you're going to run -5's on a standard sized engine the impression might not be a true indication due to the stroker.

Definitely not a good indicator, i can tell you that! :D

i bought those hks step 2 valve springs and stupidly did not pressure test them......car felt a little fluffy but kept on trucking for about a year then took the head off,removed the valves and it looked like they had been floating....put them on a pressure tester and they were shite!!!!!!got some random ones from austral and whammo.....all good

  • 2 weeks later...

OK, Little progression update

R34 dumps and Nismo Front pipes

Splitfire coil packs

ID 1000's

R32 GTR front seats

Will i be able to use my current airbox? Will just be going with a hi flow panel.

Next on the list

BC BR coilovers

Get 350z rims to get Powdercoated ( black)

Then money aside for some quality rubber

Also, cant find what thread, Though someone commented on my water pump or oil pump and said it was no good? if so this is something i would like to sort asap.

another thing thats just poped to mind is Radiator, Not really keen on leaving the stock one it has at the moment, Probably more of a piece of mind thing but will be going in as the Front mount gets set up.

Probly just go with a GTR stock FM, Unless unigroup advise otherwise.

Not everyone can afford to buy a GTR then run it... so never goin to happen lol :nyaanyaa:

If he hasnt told you abuot it then he deosnt think u need it

Replaces the CAS for a more accurate engine timing signal

is your car there now?

a "Y' pipe is a pipe that fits onto the front of a turbo.. generally a big single, it flares into a 'Y" so you can adapt 2 filters/AFMs onto it for the intake.. also has a seperate pipe on the underside to plumb back a BOV if desired

I have a Greedy one if you wanna buy one

Edited by GTR_JOEY

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If I had "perfect R33 GTR" kinda money I would have bought one of the crazy expensive low mileage HJA cars, but I am sadly not that wealthy. I already picked this car out of various Skylines for sale locally, most of which were worse in some way. Only a few cars were actually better but also more expensive. In terms of buying a motor locally, I at least have the option to inspect it myself and juding the seller as a person, and used or freshly rebuilt engines that some people sell are actually ok price-wise. I knew the car was going to require work, but shit piled up real fast and I haven't even driven 1000km yet as the turbo started oiling like a bitch within a few weeks after I got the car.   I assume it wasn't actually me who cracked it, though there is no way to know when that crack formed and if the previous owner even knew it was there. Buying another 05U Block can be a gamble, yeah, but the cheapest PRP cast block is like twice or more money-wise, and billet is 3 or 3 times as much. For now I am most likely just keeping the current engine, as a rebuild or engine swap isn't happening right now. But I am seriously considering buying a second engine and selling mine in return. Might be a sweet deal at the end.
    • Hi all. I need some help buying the correct size banjo bolts for my 2860 turbos. Because whoever installed them tore up the original part, I ordered new ones of this kind, because I just figured these were the most leak-resistant option as I already had trouble with a shitty braided line. I need to know the thread size of the smaller left hole, that is the turbo oil feed connection. I found out so far that the turbo oil inlet apparently has a 7/16"-24 thread, but I cannot find any listing or description of the thread size on this line. I do not have the original bolts. I tried using the bolts that were in the turbos (the ones that were mounted with the shitty braided line) but they sit very loosely so they can't be the right thread. Means either these bolts are the wrong ones (how do they fit the turbo then? no clue) or the wraparound-lines have a different thread than the turbo oil feed itself. Help is appreciated, asking Nissan directly is obviously not going to work.
    • EDIT: PSA to whoever stumbles upon this thread. It is in fact a crack in the block that caused this concern. Just letting you know. In my case, a few cm long hairline crack going horizontally above the turbo oil feed. Classic RB shit I guess
    • Might as well pop in some cams, head gasket, head studs, and a flex sensor. Full send.
    • Yeah I spent close to a year finding one. I was even tempted to buy a RB25DE N/A head and port it out. That latter option, could still be an option.
×
×
  • Create New...