Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R33 S1 RB25 with nice deep gouge marks in 2 bores

mods: genuine T6725G 8cm, standard intake manifold, HKS cams/cam gears, NO VCT, RB20 loom and ECU
fuel: BP98
power: 311kw on 19psi
oil: penrite 15w40
useage: drifting
lifespan: have only done 1 event in it so far but seems strong, no blow by or anything
failure: none yet

E16C0E13-7A45-4DF1-81D6-4948F531E79F-252

Hey guys, can I join?

mods: 3" exhaust, greddy 600*300*76 intercooler, nismo fuel pump, nismo 740cc injectors, Hypergear ATR43 G3 turbo, low mount, stock manifold
fuel: e85 Caltex EFlex
power: 304 @ 17psi (clutch slipping so can't go further)
oil: Castrol Edge 10w60
useage: Daily driver - to and from work - occasional mountains flogging or track day
lifespan: Owned for 3 years still going
failure: None - touch wood
comments: So much fun!

2013-04-04%2018.42.32.jpg

Hi Tranman , I'd like to see your intake from the Z32 to the GTX3076R if possible because many claim its difficult to do .

Do we know for sure if the std GTS25T airbox can't support 300 RWKW , I still have mine and it has a cleanable Piper Cross element in it . I'd also like to see the box mods as I like stealth and I'm using the same IC as yours . The airbox in R33 GTRs must be significantly better if it supports more than 290-300 RWKW .

Good effort , cheers A .

Pictures (below) of what the workshop (Chasers Motorworks) did to open it up the stock airbox. They also fabricated the intake pipe to the turbo using a silicon hose joiner from the z32 to the 3" metal intake pipe before joining to the turbo via 3" to 4" silicon hose fitting. I was advised it was a bitch to do by the workshop.

The stock airbox was holding me back on my car hence needing to drill out holes. Not saying it will/may hold others back if they have better flowing setups etc.

stockairboxtopview.jpg

stockairboxsideview.jpg

Was tough getting a pic to show you the pipe from the z32 at this time, but you may be able to just make out how it reaches the turbo.

intakefromz32.jpg

I looked up pics of the R33 GTRs airbox and it seems to lay on its side so there is a greater volume of air either side of the element .

Has anyone tried to use the 33 GTRs box in a 25T ? Probably a bit of stuffing around making a Y pipe but if you're doing something for a bigger turbo inlet ?

A .

Edited by discopotato03

i wouldn't worry about water... I ran my car like that for 5 years with no issues.

(not the hole cut in the stock airbox, but a pod in a custom box with a CAI from the front bar

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
    • Yeah - I mean, go the other way. Smaller range. Not larger.
×
×
  • Create New...