Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeh I was thinking I would get that as well, otherwise I'll get it installed and then find I need more inputs and have to change it again, doesn't make sense.

So can anyone tell me more about QuickTune? Is it as easy as it sounds for tuning cruise cells?

  • Replies 96
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeh, can get the link for around $1500. Will see what price my tuner will do on the VIPEC, but if they are the same then it's no biggy either way.

$1650 is the exact price from the local distributor (Advan in Sydney) including the required upgraded map sensor if you're running higher boost. Link really would be smart to just include the better map sensor standard.

$1650 is the exact price from the local distributor (Advan in Sydney) including the required upgraded map sensor if you're running higher boost. Link really would be smart to just include the better map sensor standard.

Well if the Vipec comes with the 3 bar sensor and works out to be cheaper than I should be all good, I won't be running more than 2 bar of boost anyway.

i think Rob from RIPS got me the extra harness, which i'm very glad he did because i think you need it if you want to do the flex-fuel setup. It has the digital input channel i believe.

Roy, who's tuning? might make a difference if they'll be 'bundling'

Right, so I just got a price for the Vipec V44 from the local dealer; $1750 for just the plug in board. Would still need to get the harness extension, IAT sensor, and upgraded MAP sensor as it does only come with a 2.5 bar sensor.

Compared to the Link which I can get for $1700 including all the above. I know which one I'm leaning towards at the moment...

http://www.speedtechnz.com/shop/brands/link/GTT+Link+G4+-+Nissan+Skyline+R34+GTT.html

And

http://www.rpw.com.au/shop/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=3&category_id=868&page=shop.browse&limitstart=15&limit=20&vmcchk=1&Itemid=3

Still not sure if I want to buy through my tuner so they are better inclined to me or buy elsewhere and just get them to tune it. Sad world we live in that I even have to think about that closedeyes.gif

Re Speedtech and others...Dont assume you will be able to buy from NZ or other OS stores. Two NZ Link dealers knocked me back in November as they were told not to sell into others markets. :(

So I would be getting on the phone and speaking to them....yo umay find you have to buy off a local agent. Thats a good thing to me as whats the point of being a dealer if people are just going to buy OS. Sux for the consumer, but good for the shops that we need to have around to do work for us

Anyone out there running either of these ECUs able to comment on their ability to hold boost? I am tempted to run some air injectors from the unused outputs as this approach seems to give you the boost control you need from internal gate turbos running E85 happy boost levels of ~28psi

I have cousins in NZ that I can speak to.

I'm all for supporting local industries if they support me, but my local dealers aren't interested in helping me out. My tuner said he is happy to install and tune the VIPEC, but he is too busy to help me diagnose and fix my car running the NIStune. All the workshops I've spoken to are the same, they're not interested because my car is a conversion.

Yeah that kinda thing would make me not want to support the locals either because clearly all they are doing is trying to make money by selling you an ECU.

I guess it depends on how much you will save. Speak to the cuzzy's i say

They are a business. No shame in making money from on-selling, especially if they are an approved dealer who has perhaps invested time and cost in training and supporting a product. Hell they dont get paid for the 40mins on the phone answering questions about the product, so if they sell it they are entitled to a few dollars in my eyes.

LOL, that means I dont try and get around it myself :)

Personally it pisses me off that I have an Cosworth ECU that works great....just isnt supported by anyone here as in motorsport world they sell themselves and not readily used by street/modded car workshops. So now have to look at something like a Link :( I cant even download the tuning software, I have to buy it :( So having a dealer network that is protected can be a good thing...you only notice it when there isnt a dealer network :(

Lol, I don't think I've ever managed to get my tuner on the phone for more than 2 minutes. As I said, don't have a problem with paying for something if the workshop is helping me out. Like my intake pipe. I had the car in there for the turbo install and a tune, Andy was happy to fit me in and gettin car finished, but it would cost me $400 for the pipe. I gave him the go ahead because it wasn't his problem but he was still happy to sort it out for me.

Right, so tuner says $3500 to supply, install and tune. Not sure I can justify it, given I don't know 100% it will solve my problems. Might have to just forge ahead with the NIStune, see if I can run up $3500 on retunes everytime it doesn't work :glare:

$3500 supply, install, tune? seems a bit high?

Ecu = $1700

Install = $90 (just say 1 hour, won't need it, it's a plugin for goodness sakes)

Tune = $1710 - that's errr.... a lot.

even if it's 2 hours labour of install time, which is very generous, that's still a massive tuning bill. You'd be hard pressed to find a tuner who doesn't say how easy it is to tune the Link/Vipecs up.

Roy, you could always try Trent, you'd be surprised by how many different ECU's he's played with over the years. If not, i'm sure he could sort it out if you could get the software (but prob not much point if that costs as much as a new Link)

This is what I thought unsure.gif I'm all for paying top dollar for a good tune, but... I'd do it if I knew for sure that it would fix all my problems, but at the moment it's a $3500 gamble that I think I'm gonna have to fold on.

The Link "plug in" ecu for Skylines isnt 100% plug in though hehe. Theres still a few wires that need attention, running the vac hose through the firewall, removing the intake pipe and installing IAT sensor etc. It all takes time obviously.

They do come with startup maps however so that does save a shitload of time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
×
×
  • Create New...