Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 year later...

Thread dig

No I did not change my shafts when I swapped my 32 subframe to a 33 one.

Still work fine though you are right in saying that it is wider and it will push your wheels out.

I'm not so sure I like the look

  • 6 months later...

Another thread dig, I've nearly finished my conversion (after starting it in 2014 lol) of R33 subframe into my R32 and I'm struggling for info about the rear LCA inner bushes. There was a mention earlier that washers are required but shouldn't I be able to get R33 bushes to suit an R33 subframe?

The difference I've measured for the width of the rear LCA inner bushes: R32-45mm, R33-50mm.

I've even asked about aftermarket R33 rear LCA's and they all tell me that they're 45mm!

Any help is appreciated.

See the pics of R32 vs R33.

post-10715-14604628332168_thumb.jpgpost-10715-14604628486645_thumb.jpg

  • 8 months later...
12 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

HICAS notwithstanding, they are supposed to be the same "geometry".

Just bought one for $60 with all the arms and hubs (which I'm guessing I just use my R32 ones in) so will look at making some offset-offset spacers to align everything back to the middle

  • 5 months later...

Update on doing this for anyone looking to do this, parts required are:

1, R33/R34 or S14/15 subframe. (I used a R33 non-Hicas subframe, R34/S15 subframes have more gusseting, I also welded in a GKtech subframe reinforcing kit.)

2, Offset subframe bushes (I used the GKtech solid offset bushes, these mount the subframe up a lot higher which is better for roll centre and will require a little "massage" of the floor pan on the front on either side of the subframe, test fit the subframe before mounting the diff and arms on it.....all will become obvious)

3, R33/S14 lower suspension arms (you can still use the R32 arms but will need spacers/washers to pack out the difference on the inside mounts

4, R32 upper arms (I made the mistake of buying brand new R33 top arms thinking they would be required.....but they foul on the shocks) 

5, Driveshaft Spacers (I used the GKtech 10mm ones. There is some differing thoughts as to whether these are required, but I figured if the R33 subframe is 10mm wider on either side then I would put them in to avoid damaging the CV joints)

6, R33/S14 Tie Rods and Bushes (If you are getting rid of the Hicas by going to a non-Hicas subframe like I did you will need these and something like a set of Whiteline bushes to replace the ball joints that are in the hubs for the Hicas tie rods)

7, R32 ARB (seems to still fit, the mounts are spaced a little further apart)

IMG_0509.JPG

Edited by Sub Boy32
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2001 BE5D Subaru Legacy B4 RSK (3rd gen) EJ208 (pink injector) Twin Turbo 280PS 5-speed manual Full time 4WD "RSK" grade which means all of the above LQC option which means stock rear spoiler  I got it primarily to export to someone outside Japan who was interested. These BE5 Legacy B4 RSKs are going through a bit of a resurgence right know in Japan as they are one of the few cars from the "turbo, manual, RWD/4WD, 280hp gentleman's agreement era" cars that don't require stupid money to purchase. Which for some people might be a good opportunity to get as a base for restoration. If I can't find anyone to purchase it I will certainly be doing that myself over the long term. Why? Because it's properly fast in stock form, handles well enough for a GT sedan, there's still enough aftermarket and (if you can wait a while) genuine part support to make it a restoration candidate (<-- that will only get worse over time so it's a case of do it now or choose get a BL5 4th Gen). Mechanically it's fine, has only 89,200kms on the odometer. The problem with this car is that the body and exterior trims are weathered from at least the last 10 years being parked outdoors. I'm the 3rd owner, the first owner was the one that had it for 14 years and barely drove it, had a low-speed front impact (which didn't damage anything behind the radiator support) and got it fixed and sold it. The 2nd owner put most of the kms on it and parked it outside for the last 10 years, hence the door rubbers have seen better days but if you overlook those cosmetic details, it presents pretty nicely. There is some minor rust on the LH rear wheel arch which I'll have looked at too at some stage.  Also as you'd expect from a car this age, the clear top coat is gone, leaving a satin finish on the roof.  Mechanically it's fine (as you would expect from a car with less than 100K kms) but the steering does feel slightly vague around the centre position at higher speeds. So first on the list is to get the steering rack bushes looked at. There's also the Lock button on the remote which doesn't work, but the Open button does.... it means that the anti-theft system thinks it's always open? It seems like if you open the car and don't start the engine within 3 mins or so the anti-theft kicks in again without any beeps or signals. So if you got to start it after that, it won't. You have to push the open button again. That's how I understand it anyway. Just a small irritation but not a big problem to sort out. There's only one mod, the Wangan SPL muffler. Just a tad louder than stock. It's a really good mod for those who don't want to wake the neighbours but still want to hear a more prominent unequal length header EJ20 sound. Anyway I hope to get all those things done eventually, that is unless someone wanted to import it to their country from Japan (where I live). I'm open for negotiations as I really would like a Skyline... but this will definitely suffice in the meantime 🙂 *Disclaimer: This is how I picked it up from the dealer, minus the stuff on the back seat. I haven't cleaned the engine bay or done a thorough exterior clean, aside from spray painting the wipers. 
    • Wow, even with the Audi logo centre caps. I love OEM wheel mismatches. 
    • Welcome!  Can't go wrong with a Stag.
    • Looks good. Nice height.
    • Hey all, a little help from the Stagea hive mind plz.. I'm days away from buying either a 2002 Stagea 250tRS AR-X Four, premium leather, power seats and all the old switches etc that go with it, or a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO, pov pack, cloth seats etc, with coil overs, sports zorst, comes with original zorst and suspension and parts. (I think I've got the models right?) Both are VQ25DET, have 160000kms, both straight no rust both with $2000+ in recent servicing receipts, both ride on aftermarket 18" rims. The Aero has a replaced turbo as well. I like the cool factor of the Aero car but the AR-X has never been modified. Neither have been driven hardly at all in the last 5 years. Any thoughts on which one or does it come down to personal preference? davemoto 
×
×
  • Create New...