Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okay,

So my current diff is on its way out - the usual whines, clunks and noises that come from a diff which has done 170,000 kms.

So in saying that, I'm on the lookout for a replacement...

1st choice (cheapest) would be to overhaul & shim up the diff I have in the car -

advantages: fixes the clunks noises etc., locks better that currently, cheap

disadvantages: its a V-LSD. They have average performance at best. Shimming accelerates wear on the crown wheel from what I had read and overall is just a bandaid for a bullet wound.

2nd choice would be to purchase a new or used Nismo/OS Giken/Cusco etc. -

advantages: Nismo item is comfortable (almost) as OEM, locks consistently, considerably newer item overall

disadvantages: costly, if 2nd hand unknown condition etc.

3rd choice would be to install a diff from another car i.e. S15 torsen diff -

advantages: locks consistently (except for in zero traction environment), cheap

disadvantages: zero traction = zero lock (driveways etc.), unknown condition

What is your thoughts? Which path should I go down considering that cost, effectiveness, performance and condition of the item all need to be considered...

Cheers,

David

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390011-differential-choices-for-r32-gtst/
Share on other sites

I'm currently in the process of doing #3. Is turning out to be more expensive than I expected though. I initially bought a diff advertised as R34 manual LSD (which are supposed to be 4.11 and torsen). But it was a 4.11 VLSD. So either the specs on R34s were more flexible than I thought, or I got sold an R33 unit. Then I bought an S15 torsen centre. That seems fine, but the ratio is Silvia tall. So we built Frankendiff. Moved the 4.11 gears to the torsen centre and then put the lot into my R32 housing. Wasn't easy to get the CW&P set up correctly, so now it's at a diff shop getting set up. So there's $300+ for purchased diffs and a couple hundred coming up to pay the diff shop. Still worth it though I think.

Sorry forgot to add that...

Car is pretty much 95% street, 5% track.

2-way is pretty much out of the question. There is just no need for it.

GTSBoy:

Yeh it seems the cheapest way to go about it. Best of both worlds IMO (cheap & still locks well for the way I use my car). But like you said, its a big ordeal to get it all setup. Unfortunately you had the added expense of the extra diff :yucky:

Also, problem is finding a 1.5 Nismo diff.

They don't pop up very often.

I have also been told the half shafts (AKA stub shafts) are different from OEM and you need the correct halfshafts supplied with teh diff from Nismo. These also rarely pop up correct for my car i.e. 5X1 bolt pattern etc.

Think the issue is more David doesn't see buying a new one as value for money, $1400 is a shitload, see lots of 2nd hand 2 ways for ~500 that cost nothing to get the clutches machined and set up with non aggressive preload but he wants a 1.5 which almost never come up second hand, hence the question, buy a torsen for not much? buy a 2 way that is slightly more aggressive than he wants or pay way too much for a new 1.5?

Imo a nismo 2 way with mild preload would be fine as I've had one and it drove like stock, but I don't think david wants to compromise there. Which means either lots of money for new 1.5 or a torsen that will be better than stock but not as good as a 1.5 way.

Guess it comes down to 2 metrics, cost and performance, what is more important? If it is cost go torsen, if it is performance go a 1.5 way. Though the 2nd hand 2 way is screaming as a fantastic middle ground to me.

http://www.nengun.com/nismo/gt-lsd-pro

1.5 and 2 way listed there. Email and ask them, as im pretty sure the Nismo kit comes with new 1/2 shafts.

I picked up a Nismo 2 way 2nd hand for only $600 in apparently immaculate condition, i then sent it to a local diff expert and got him to rotate it to 1.5 way as it will see a lot of street work and occasional track, its yet to be driven on but condition looked mint inside, yes the half shafts are different to stock.

Just a quick note in regards to the half shafts, the Nismo LSD's are supplied with OEM Nissan half-shafts BUT, they are equal length (short IIRC) as opposed to the 1xlong/1xshort which is standard.

I picked up a Nismo 2 way 2nd hand for only $600 in apparently immaculate condition, i then sent it to a local diff expert and got him to rotate it to 1.5 way as it will see a lot of street work and occasional track, its yet to be driven on but condition looked mint inside, yes the half shafts are different to stock.

I bought my 2 way for $900 which was just run in (basically brand new). Came with new 1/2 shafts when I got it also.

I've noticed that you can indeed rotate the housings between 1,1.5,2 way on some diffs, didn't know you could do it with the nismos, that is interesting as hell!

Pretty sure it is just Nismo and Cusco that you can do it with, unsure if there are others but its an awesome option. The Nismo Pro (What i have) you need to dismantle it and rotate it, but i believe the Pro TT is better in design? Either way i was happy with the purchase!!

I bought my 2 way for $900 which was just run in (basically brand new). Came with new 1/2 shafts when I got it also.

That's a good buy!!! Its pretty hard to find R34GTT bits so i was stoked when i got my diff!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
    • Yeah, shame. Maybe  driver's carpet is available 🙏. I am waiting for both amayama and nangun to confirm.
×
×
  • Create New...