Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Interested in this Earls fitting part number also.

djr81 if your still looking for someone over in the West to help you out with your squirty motor, I'm happy to chat and advise on my set-up. I run a Tomei pump and do lots or laps up at Waneroo and have done for a couple of yrs now with the WASCC without any dramas wrt oil breathing in my 26.

Tried PM'ing you mate but think your inbox is full or something so it won't send.....

Wes 0438 233 610

Turns out they are Speedflow fittings, the guy I got the bits from is away ATM so I will know early in the week. It is a 90deg fitting with one side that can spin, and we just drilled and tapped my alloy Nismo cap ;)

Interested in this Earls fitting part number also.

djr81 if your still looking for someone over in the West to help you out with your squirty motor, I'm happy to chat and advise on my set-up. I run a Tomei pump and do lots or laps up at Waneroo and have done for a couple of yrs now with the WASCC without any dramas wrt oil breathing in my 26.

Tried PM'ing you mate but think your inbox is full or something so it won't send.....

Wes 0438 233 610

Cheers for the offer. As of last time out at Wroo I think I have it sorted. The thing managed a 55.0 short circuit on tyres so old they had sparks coming off them. :unsure:

The solution is to vent the blow by via a path that doesnt go through the back of the head. I think the most of the rest of it is bollocks - eg the Mines head baffles, tiny (<1.0mm) oil restrictors. Ofcourse venting the blowby is really just a bandaid, albeit a common one. It shouldnt happen in the first place but a relatively small amount of blowby appears to cause big probems in the RB's. There are no end of RB26 out there who have this issue but it isnt a problem as they are only driven on roads where it doesnt show up.

There is another discussion to be had about ring thickness, tension and selection - eg what forged pistons can I run and use Nissan rings?

Yeah look I don't run the cam cover baffles in mine either but use the top mount oil air separator which seems to be working well for me without an additional catch can. About to wind a bit more power into her so will see if that changes things wrt breathing which I dare say it might. Wes

Yeah look I don't run the cam cover baffles in mine either but use the top mount oil air separator which seems to be working well for me without an additional catch can. About to wind a bit more power into her so will see if that changes things wrt breathing which I dare say it might. Wes

I had the Mines baffles fitted so couldnt run a top mount as the two dont go together.

Who you getting your engine done by?

Also you should enter the next Wroo Speed Event Sprint.

Not sure why you couldn't still run the top mount air separator as my mate does and his has the mines rocker cover baffles fitted up?

Shaun at Allstar Garage re-tuned it this morning for us. He put the initial tune in it (435 rwhp) and couldn't have been happier over the last few yrs with the way it has run. Re-tune today ended up with 487rwhp at 22psi so hopefully htis doesn't create any breathing issues. Will see next w.e. at the next tuning day I spose.

I didn't mention previously and probly should have (as it may effect the intentions of this thread) but my engine has been opened up and is running new rods, pistions bearings, tomei oil pump etc so has had a freshen up. This may be why it runs without alot of the oil breathing probs many guys have when tracking their cars. I do run a tomei head oil restrictor (not sure on size but can confirm if need be) which I believe goes someway towards helping eliminate oil starvation probs and also feel it must do something towards engine breathing probs (lets not get started on the debate) with the work my car does at the track at it's current tune.

Yeah have done a few timed events this year and last such as one of the no limits nights, a HSV club day (dont ask) with a few other skyline boys and many many WASCC tuning days. Have my own timing set-up, so get that out regularly to make sure were making progress ;) Plan on doing the next regularity event the WASCC holds as these are good events that force you to pick a time in which you have to try consitently meet.

Wes

  • 6 months later...

Ok Ladies and Gents, I went out to the track with my new catch can set up and it works mint... My standard RB26 managed to spit about 2L of oil (which all got caught in the catch can) over 5 sessions at Barbagallo. So the catch can worked great, but my oil level went from the hump of the dipstick to low during the night, it's not really optimal to have to try and remove the catch can, drain it and then put it back in the motor during events so I'm looking for a solution.

My catch can has a -10 drain on the bottom designed to be returned to the sump but foolishly we didn't weld on a fitting on the sump when the motor was out. At the moment it's just blanked off but considering how much oil was in the catch can and how "clean" it was I'm really keen to return to the sump. So my options as I see it are;

  1. Run a -10 line from the catch can around the back of the block above the bell housing and to the rear turbo oil drain with an inline one way valve. The advantage is the rear oil drain is currently blanked and not doing anything and technically it's on the "right" side of the motor so should drain under most conditions as the crank will be creating vacuum and pulling in the oil. The issue is it's going to be a very long line and gravity may take a while to drain over that distance.
  2. Run a -10 line to above the oil of the drivers side of the sump. The problem being I'm not keen in removing the motor (so would have to be very careful drilling and tapping the sump for the fitting while the motor was in the car)

Comments/suggestions etc are welcome? Most keen to go option 1 as it's going to be a fairly easy fix, just wondering if everyone thinks it should work ok.

There is always the Nismo can that drains back into the sump via the rear turbo oil return line.

Anyway before you get too excited I would recommend a few laps of Collie and see how that goes. The anti clockwise nature of the circuit makes is much, much harder to sort out your oiling issues.

Ok a little more information, this is my set up at the moment.

20130108_180747.jpg

20121214_181238.jpg

with a K&N filter on top of the catch can.

The catch can has steel wool and baffles that almost 100% separates the oil from the air before venting, so much so that of the 2L of oil that went into the catch can about 3 drops came out the filter. It's the same set up that is used by the Western Australians that do plenty of track work at Barbs and Collie, the only difference being that they then drain back to the sump, which is why I asked the question I did.


I don't want to drain back to the head, because oil in the head is causing the issue. I just want to get the oil from the catch can back in the sump (if you look closely at the second picture you can see the -10 drain at the bottom of the catch can). I don't see myself as having a oiling issue, I know this set up works and it works well, I just have an issue with not having an easy way to get the oil back to the sump.

Edited by SimonR32

The question is then, how many spots in the sump have you got available? Obviously there is a drain plug and the return oil from the turbos. Nismo use the latter for their catch can. So maybe replicate that if you think your catch can will contain the oil from one run.

The question is then, how many spots in the sump have you got available? Obviously there is a drain plug and the return oil from the turbos. Nismo use the latter for their catch can. So maybe replicate that if you think your catch can will contain the oil from one run.

The only spot available currently is the rear oil drain (the issue being getting the line from the catch can to that drain) or the other potential option is we drill and tap the sump on the drivers side.

The catch can took 2L of oil after 7 laps of long track and 3 laps of short track at Barbagallo. That left my sump with just over low on the dip stick which is just enough to be on the safe side considering I have a Greddy extended sump and pickup. So even if nothing drained back during the run I could do 10 laps and still be ok, other stuff on the car is going to give up before then.

Edited by SimonR32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...