Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so the above was a fail, still getting plenty of oil in the catch can (about 100ml per lap) so back to the drawing board.

Luckily (unluckily but I'm being optimistic) I went to the track the other night in the wet and the excess front wheelspin has lunched the front diff so the motor is coming out. I have a Greddy extended sump so I'm now planning on getting 2 x dash 10 fittings welded to the passenger (intake) side at the front above the oil line. Going to remove that other line to the rear turbo oil drain and just blank it off again at the same time at it didn't seem to help.

I plan on one of the dash 10 lines going to the top of the catch can next to the cover breathers as a sump breather. The other will get plumbed to the bottom of the catch can with a one way valve (no spring) to act as a drain for any oil to drain if and when it does reach the catch can...

Am I on the right track here? Works in my head

SimonR32, on 16 Sept 2013 - 13:31, said:

Ok so the above was a fail, still getting plenty of oil in the catch can (about 100ml per lap) so back to the drawing board.

Luckily (unluckily but I'm being optimistic) I went to the track the other night in the wet and the excess front wheelspin has lunched the front diff so the motor is coming out. I have a Greddy extended sump so I'm now planning on getting 2 x dash 10 fittings welded to the passenger (intake) side at the front above the oil line. Going to remove that other line to the rear turbo oil drain and just blank it off again at the same time at it didn't seem to help.

I plan on one of the dash 10 lines going to the top of the catch can next to the cover breathers as a sump breather. The other will get plumbed to the bottom of the catch can with a one way valve (no spring) to act as a drain for any oil to drain if and when it does reach the catch can...

Am I on the right track here? Works in my head

Yes. If you read the last few pages of the big thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/?hl=sk%20oil%20control

you will see that worked for me. You can also run the cam cover breathers to the same catch can and then instead of venting the catch can to atmosphere run a line to the turbo intake - preferably via an air/oil separator (or in my case just a second catch can). Do you have an oil restrictor in place?

Yes. If you read the last few pages of the big thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/?hl=sk%20oil%20control

you will see that worked for me. You can also run the cam cover breathers to the same catch can and then instead of venting the catch can to atmosphere run a line to the turbo intake - preferably via an air/oil separator (or in my case just a second catch can). Do you have an oil restrictor in place?

Just read your plan, almost exactly the same plan but you didn't mention if you put a one way valve in the catch can drain?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
    • Yes then it will turn on but I want the car features to work  
    • My thought is if you were just moving it forward and the upstream geometry remained the same, then no difference at all. But because the current one has the filter direct into the AFM inlet, you effectively have the best chance of a completely symmetric air flow profile upstream, and in, the AFM, whilst the aftermarket inlet thingo has a (small, to be sure) bend between the filter and the AFM. That would bias the flow to the outside of the bend (downstream of the bend) which might well reduce the size of the signal seen by the AFM, for the same total flow rate. Having said that: If you're proposing to make your inlet look like a hybrid of your existing one and the aftermarket one, such that there is no bend where the filter is clamped on... then I say it will be just fine. If there is going to be such a bend, then, if you can align the insertion of the AFM blade such that it is at right angles to the plane of the bend, then there is a better than even chance that the centreline velocity where the blade is will remain more or less the same, and the velocity will just be a little faster to the outside of that, and just a little slower to the inside. **This is not professional investment advice and you should consult a suitably qualified ouija board, tea leaves or the intestines of a goat for more accurate prognostication.
    • Hi Tao, Thanks for your reply.  It's been a while and I managed to get the valve stem seals replaced with the head on the car.  Unfortunately this didn't solve my issue, the car still smokes a lot after idling (to be honest during idle you can see a bit of blue smoke from the exhaust), same after deceleration. I will try disconnecting the valve cover breathers, do I leave the PCV valve in? By engine oil drain pipe, do you mean the turbo oil drain?
    • What about if you just give it direct 12v and earth?
×
×
  • Create New...