Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 245
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

But with parity is there really going to be much difference?

That's the question really.

I'd imagine the construiction will be near on identical, with just different shells. Engines from external also go through parity so will no doubt be restricted.

Just fearing it'll be similar to NASCAR in terms of the cars only really being marginally different.

It's starting to hot up a bit isn't it.

I had a strange feeling this morning reading that. I thought, hmmmm, I understand the COTF and how they're built, but maybe, juuuuust maybe, new engines and a refreshed fan demographic might just turn me into a fan after 20 years of hate.

I really hope so, if only for selfish reasons :)

Ash, go to a V8 Supercar round and look at the car and tell me they are the same. They use the same building blocks, but its like saying a Racepace GTR is the same as a Godzilla Motorsports GTR is the same as a Willal GTR.

Look around and all the classes people love the look of offer poor racing and too high a cost. GT1 has just fallen over again. My main problem with the current Supercars are the muppets driving them. :( Apart from Lowndes and Murphy I dont like any of them to passionately turn on the box and barrack for any of them

Just looking at the engines - with parity matching will there still be enough of difference in things like response and reliability ? What are they matching, Peak kW or a combination of things like kW, torque and a RPM Limit ? ( I couldn't find it quickly on the super taxi website )

Bring it on I say. The average Joe needs to be able to relate to it, which is why a taxis shelled race car will win out over super cars every time.

I love WRC myself and those cars have NO relation to their road going namesakes ( other then the core shell.) but I'm strange like that.

It remains a good spectator motorsport because of the limited aero, small tyres and decent power... the cars move around a lot which gives the sensation of speed... they're loud and durable enough to rub panels... it doesn't matter what road cars they're imitating or what brand motor is under the hood... it's fun to watch for the casual fan

I don't watch it much save for Bathurst... but you have to appreciate the longevity and success of the series

I think the engine parity thing is bullshit, why not let them run what ever engine from their manufacturers inventory and run restrictors on all of them. Ala FIA GT Racing?

Seems ridiculous that Mercedes is taking a 6.3 Litre engine and destroking it to the mandatory 5.0 Litres? why is 5.0 litres even relevant? Same for Nissans VK56.

The easiest way for things to get out of control is to let different manufacturers run vastly different capacities. If you let Nissan run 5.6, Mercs 6.3, GM 7L and Ford 5.4L or whatever they are you are going to instantly have vastly different levels of performance. If you cap them all at 5L then you just have to consider the differences in the valve gear and stroke/bore and how they make their power. Makes sense to me.

And yeh, I like Murphy...he used to sook a bit when he was competitive but these days seems to have come good and I think is a pretty good character

The easiest way for things to get out of control is to let different manufacturers run vastly different capacities. If you let Nissan run 5.6, Mercs 6.3, GM 7L and Ford 5.4L or whatever they are you are going to instantly have vastly different levels of performance. If you cap them all at 5L then you just have to consider the differences in the valve gear and stroke/bore and how they make their power. Makes sense to me.

And yeh, I like Murphy...he used to sook a bit when he was competitive but these days seems to have come good and I think is a pretty good character

Your Ford Falcon can be bought with a 5 litre, 32V V8.

The reason they wnt to keep the current motors is the teams have a huge amount of money tied up in them. Yes it would be easier for parity with all the same motors - then people would bitch that all the cars are the same. But that is the choice you have really - parity arguments or whingers that say the cars are all the same.

...parity arguments or whingers that say the cars are all the same.

That sums it up really doesn't it? I dont think they should have all the same motor, capacity yes, but not motor. There will be enough differences in the engines that they will have different notes and character. be interesting to see if the old story of pushrods having a bit better torque (mainly from the bore/stroke) than the multi-valve jobs

You like Murphy Roy?

We are no longer friends...........

Murph is awesome :D

All the cars will equal I reckon....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...