Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Read their website and I might buy one depending on if I can find a new manifold for cheaper or a new pipe cheaper

I am going to hook the old radiator up today or tomorrow and flush the system. Haven't checked the pump yet or the thermostat

I might pick a thermo up at the same time as a new pipe

+ I always ran quality coolant but it must have been from previous owners. I only had the car about 6 months

FIXED :D

I got a pipe from nat rad for $5 and banged the shit into place!

Used a bit of gasket glue as well

Also tested my thermostat at the same time and checked for extra rust.

non to be seen worship.gif

Now just waiting for the gasket glue to seal and then I will be driving like a granny again

^^^ This is good to hear, this. Hope all is good.

Nat Rad where? The Gibbs place in Belco I mentioned is also a Nat Rad & they seem to know their schnitzel.

Apart from leaving a hose clamp off the overflow and chucking my old thermo in the bin against my wishes (retrieved),

I would deff use them again for sure.

Cheers guys

From all the welsh plugs I could see and feel they seemed fine so I guess only time will tell.

Flushed the whole thing as well like you said Sin

So yeah all in all it might be fine

Thanks of course to wilderboy who is my new housemate and a mechanic that knows his shit

  • 9 months later...

do you have any pics of how you fixed this, i just took off my top radiator hose cause it had a small leak, it didnt look as bad as yours but near enough

wondering how i should go about fixing it as well,

do you have any pics of how you fixed this, i just took off my top radiator hose cause it had a small leak, it didnt look as bad as yours but near enough

wondering how i should go about fixing it as well,

Didn't take pics sorry

But I went to Nat rad and they gave me a bit of old pipe they had laying around that was similar diameter and I smashed that in the spot with a hammer

Didn't take pics sorry

But I went to Nat rad and they gave me a bit of old pipe they had laying around that was similar diameter and I smashed that in the spot with a hammer

thanks did you find lots of rusted crap when you flushed it?

did you have any temp issues at the time?

my cars temp gauge sits at around half way thats what made me start to look into it, found the leak then took the pipe off

thanks did you find lots of rusted crap when you flushed it?

did you have any temp issues at the time?

my cars temp gauge sits at around half way thats what made me start to look into it, found the leak then took the pipe off

Nah not much rust at all.

It chewed at that pipe because of the type of metal it was. I haven't had heating issues at all and my gauge stays about 1/4 of the way up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...