Jump to content
SAU Community

Car Playing Funny Buggers :(

soultz

By soultz,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

soultz Community Regular

soultz

Posted
Posted

hey guys,

took my car to get fuel in the morning yesterday, then washed it. ready for heathcote drag day. we left for the hume highway at 7.30, the car got to the servo fine where we met up with the rest of the cars attending. when we left i started the car all was ok, was travelling down the highway at 100Kmph, then all of a sudden felt the car not shaking but more like a shutter sort of like when you are about to stall it in a manual but all the time...when i accelerated the car would go nowhere untill the turbo kicked in then it JUST dragged the car along...we stopped at a safway on the side of the road, and i turned the car off and back on, and it still done it...i looked under the bonnet and everything seemed ok....i als checked for boost leaks using my gauge, and vaccum and boost was fine...i then turned the car off, left it for a bout 5 mins and turned it back on and it was FINE??!! i still didnt trust it so i left it there all day and went to the drags without it. i came back later that afternoon to grab it and it started fine, drive 50 mins home fine and now runs fine...i cant fault it now??

the car also sort of missfires when i put the foot to the floor at 5000 rpm, but the revvs still keep climbing like normal??? i changed the coilpacks and that helped a LOT, but it still does it under full throttle...its not like a missfire but like a stutter??

can anyone help with BOTH these problems???

cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/391524-car-playing-funny-buggers/
Share on other sites
  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

Id point towards a plug or sensor got wet or the fuel you got had some crap in it. seen as the only 2 things you did was wash it and put fuel in it. it might clear itself up after a drive, don't flog it to much in the mean time

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

In the boot, remove the back board, you will see 4 10mm screws holding down a plate. Remove that. Under there is a black lid thing with 3 hoses. You want to unplug the wires and get a rag ready for when you remove those lines as fuel is going to come out. Keep the hoses out of the way and take that lid off. To do that get a piece of wood and put it in the notches in the lid and tap it with a hammer to loosen it and get it out. Fuel pump is inside. Plenty of guides here to elaborate and show pictures of how to do it, wire it and fit it back in.

Its not a fun job. Don't do it on a hot day and be ready for swearing. DO NOT EVER attempt to do it with more than a quarter fuel in the tank. Hell run it to near empty if you can.

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted (edited)

Fuel pump isn't that hard if you get a good one. my tomei pump was easy as. pull the old one out, drop the new one in

This. Took me half an hour, including diagnosis of why the car wouldn't start when I reversed the polarities :P

Agree with running the tank near empty first though. Arms get real damn itchy immersed in petrol ermm.gif

Edited by Hanaldo
SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

This. Took me half an hour, including diagnosis of why the car wouldn't start when I reversed the polarities :P

Agree with running the tank near empty first though. Arms get real damn itchy immersed in petrol ermm.gif

And in a hot day, that itch plus the humidity rising from the fuel tank is enough to really f**king frustrate you when you cant get that cradle in the bracket.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Waders360
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By Waders360 · Posted

      Sorry. Front brake calipers
    • MBS206
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...