Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Auditioning may not be a bad idea, thanks Dale. Curious, was $950 landed or just the purchase price? If its landed and I can get a similar deal then the decision would be an easy one to make =)

I'm not really the best example unfotunately.

Mine was already in Australia, and was being sold by a guy who fell on hard times. This was at a time when they were still well above $1300 landed; so I couldn't refuse.

Edited by Daleo
  • Replies 118
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Alrighty then, we've got some quotes back:

Mr Streeter - $1,142 delivered (depending on Exchange rate)

Imp Mnstr - $1,300 delivered (8 weeks)

TurboAlfa - $1,499 delivered (worst case scenario)

+ Dump & Mid - $700

Totalling $1,842 at its cheapest

The alternative would be local options:

Dump pipe - $470

Mid w/out cat - $230

2muffler cat back - $870

Totalling $1,570.

My next and only question is whether the Legalis is worth the extra $272? ...I'm not so sure but then I've never had any experience with aftermarket exhaust systems

My next and only question is whether the Legalis is worth the extra $272? ...I'm not so sure but then I've never had any experience with aftermarket exhaust systems

Yes.

There is a reason Nismo use the same main body design for their M35 exhausts.

Edited by iamhe77

Yep stick with a Jap cat back, the little extra is worth the research and quality of them and just get one of the 3 Aussie made dumps and front pipes. I would keep a high flow cat in the mid pipe if only for appearance to the blue boys.

I've never had a Jap cat back, I thought the main reason was noise, since they're all certified to a certain (quiet) volume.

I'm extremely happy with mine as is, and for me it's right in the sweet spot volume wise. That said, if mine is too loud, you can just order it with a bigger muffler, problem solved?

Depending on who does it locally, either way you're going to get a quality result. I think it'll probably come down to volume, and if it goes to someone who hasn't got experience building exhausts for these things it'll probably be too loud. Mine was first time, but at least you can go back to the local person and get it fixed.

get a scotty dump, no question on quality. then again im biased as i owned one lol

I think all 3 of the dumps that are usually mentioned will and are, all of good quality. It will just depend on the style you want and pricing your happy with.

Thanks for your help and opinions guys. I've done a bit of reading and would be happy to invest a little more in the Jap system the only problem or hurdle that remains would be to convince the better half of the investment value.

We're still yet to receive word on when the car will be shipped over so I'm deliberating as to when to put forward any orders, ie whether to wait till its landed or have everything ready to go once it arrives.

It seems, though, that we'll have ample time to ponder the pros and cons of each. =)

Q: How much difference does a cat back make to performance if you do the dump and mid pipe?

I did mine in one hit, I'd have no idea. Is it even worth it if you want a quiet exhaust?

Q: How much difference does a cat back make to performance if you do the dump and mid pipe?

I did mine in one hit, I'd have no idea. Is it even worth it if you want a quiet exhaust?

I did my dump pipe first, and there was a big difference in the response of the turbo, and a reduced amount of throttle required to hold the same acceleration as compared to the OEM strangler. Also, my fuel economy improved (once I removed my lead right clog)blush.gif

This say to me that there is a fairly significant hike in torque when the restriction is removed, and I'm sure there is a decent HP increase to go with it.

I love the rampant selling in these threads. :nyaanyaa:

Here's some unbiased advice:

Buy the cheapest dump and front pipe you can from (I believe the current 3 options are Scotty, Rex Kelway and AM).

If you want more performance/noise, either decide between a locally made cat back or one from Japan. The jap unit will likely be better made than the local unit unless you find someone dedicated like AM or Rex Kelway, and personally I'd always go the Jap unit since there's better resale.

Q: How much difference does a cat back make to performance if you do the dump and mid pipe?

I did mine in one hit, I'd have no idea. Is it even worth it if you want a quiet exhaust?

Noticeable difference.

I ran a Legalis with a Kakimoto front pipe and stock dump for some time.

No dyno but the same drive everyday showed higher boost when putting the boot in and slightly less throttle up the hills.

I love the rampant selling in these threads. :nyaanyaa:

Here's some unbiased advice:

Buy the cheapest dump and front pipe you can from (I believe the current 3 options are Scotty, Rex Kelway and AM).

If you want more performance/noise, either decide between a locally made cat back or one from Japan. The jap unit will likely be better made than the local unit unless you find someone dedicated like AM or Rex Kelway, and personally I'd always go the Jap unit since there's better resale.

Spot on Jase. thumbsup.gif

I did my dump pipe first, and there was a big difference in the response of the turbo, and a reduced amount of throttle required to hold the same acceleration as compared to the OEM strangler. Also, my fuel economy improved (once I removed my lead right clog)blush.gif

This say to me that there is a fairly significant hike in torque when the restriction is removed, and I'm sure there is a decent HP increase to go with it.

Makes perfect sense, but did you notice much of a difference when you did the cat back later?

Thats what I'm wondering. Seeing the difference between OEM and after market dump pipe and mid pipe, I know they'd make a huge difference on their own. Just curious what a cat back adds.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
×
×
  • Create New...