Aem Uego Seems Off

[scotty nm35]

One of the stagea blokes is having an issue with his AEM wideband also, lasted a few months.

[SargeRX8]

I don't know if I should buy a new sensor or just forget about it. Waste of 230. I emailed the people I bought it from, they don't replace them. Bullshit, the f**king thing failed prematurely.

I'll try the brake cleaner and see what happens. Shit thing is it's reading richer than it should. I really doubt my tune is thrown out.

Edited February 20, 2012 by SargeRX8

[Hanaldo]

Did you buy it from the guy on eBay?

And a replacement sensor shouldn't be that much? 80 bucks or so. Don't replace it yet though, rule out everything else first. After a quick search I've found people with similar problems to us who turned out to have a poor connection somewhere in the wiring.

I suggest testing the sensor first. If it does what it should then the sensor's not stuffed, it will be a problem somewhere else.

Edited February 20, 2012 by Hanaldo

[SargeRX8]

Yeah some seller xenon something or rather. I'll suss it out when this rain f**ks the f**k off for more than 3 minutes.

[Hanaldo]

Yeh same guy I bought mine from... Coinkydink?

[StealthX]

i bought my innovate off eBay for $220 more than a year ago, hasn't missed a beat. has needed one new sensor in that time, fair call, i have a rich tune -> shorter sensor life.

I don't know about the UEGO but my LC-1 has a calibration function, for every new changed sensor its gotta calibrate the heater circuit, and calibrate to free air.

See if the UEGO has some sort of function? I'd be surprised if it didn't! I could be wrong though...

p.s. martin, you could still have 12s and even 11s at cruise sometimes and could still return good economy. were talking maybe 10% difference in duty cycle between say 12s and 14s. its things like on boost driving that kill your economy - if you have a read-out, look at your injector pulse widths when on boost. At idle I get 2.00 mS, cruising at 100kms in 5th gear = 4-6.00 mS, then on boost it ramps up to 15-17, gives you an idea how much fuel is getting smashed in on boost!!

accel. enrichment (when you stab the throttle, the ecu injects extra fuel for a few mS.) also makes a massive difference, I've had this turned up on my car fairly high (when i stabbed le throttle, i would see low 10s even 9s sometimes) and got shocking economy! Turned it down and saw a massive difference. from like 14-15 down to 11.5l/100km

[89CAL]

i bought my innovate off eBay for $220 more than a year ago, hasn't missed a beat. has needed one new sensor in that time, fair call, i have a rich tune -> shorter sensor life.

I don't know about the UEGO but my LC-1 has a calibration function, for every new changed sensor its gotta calibrate the heater circuit, and calibrate to free air.

See if the UEGO has some sort of function? I'd be surprised if it didn't! I could be wrong though...

p.s. martin, you could still have 12s and even 11s at cruise sometimes and could still return good economy. were talking maybe 10% difference in duty cycle between say 12s and 14s. its things like on boost driving that kill your economy - if you have a read-out, look at your injector pulse widths when on boost. At idle I get 2.00 mS, cruising at 100kms in 5th gear = 4-6.00 mS, then on boost it ramps up to 15-17, gives you an idea how much fuel is getting smashed in on boost!!

accel. enrichment (when you stab the throttle, the ecu injects extra fuel for a few mS.) also makes a massive difference, I've had this turned up on my car fairly high (when i stabbed le throttle, i would see low 10s even 9s sometimes) and got shocking economy! Turned it down and saw a massive difference. from like 14-15 down to 11.5l/100km

They dont Calibrate, they have a resistor inbuilt or something like that and never require calibration. All sensors are calibrated before being sold and never require calibration

Like I said. Mine has been fine for 6 Months with no calibration. Last time I used an innovate it was free air calibrated before put in the dump pipe, then about hald an hour into tuning started reading 22:1 or smomthing rediculous like that

not saying innovates are bad, just saying I've had good experience with my AEM compared to the innovate

[Hanaldo]

i bought my innovate off eBay for $220 more than a year ago, hasn't missed a beat. has needed one new sensor in that time, fair call, i have a rich tune -> shorter sensor life.

I don't know about the UEGO but my LC-1 has a calibration function, for every new changed sensor its gotta calibrate the heater circuit, and calibrate to free air.

See if the UEGO has some sort of function? I'd be surprised if it didn't! I could be wrong though...

p.s. martin, you could still have 12s and even 11s at cruise sometimes and could still return good economy. were talking maybe 10% difference in duty cycle between say 12s and 14s. its things like on boost driving that kill your economy - if you have a read-out, look at your injector pulse widths when on boost. At idle I get 2.00 mS, cruising at 100kms in 5th gear = 4-6.00 mS, then on boost it ramps up to 15-17, gives you an idea how much fuel is getting smashed in on boost!!

accel. enrichment (when you stab the throttle, the ecu injects extra fuel for a few mS.) also makes a massive difference, I've had this turned up on my car fairly high (when i stabbed le throttle, i would see low 10s even 9s sometimes) and got shocking economy! Turned it down and saw a massive difference. from like 14-15 down to 11.5l/100km

Yeh the AEM's are self-calibrating man, as 89CAL said.

My cruise AFR's are usually between 15.5-17.5 depending on load, there's still no way I'd be getting the same fuel economy on 12's as I would on 17's. I don't boost a lot on the street, second gear and I'm breaking every speed limit in my area, not too mention cops can probably hear me in Kalgoorlie lol. My accel. enrichment isn't too bad either, goes from 16's/17's to about 13.5/14's at the most. I also still have a lean pop on idle despite the wideband reading anywhere between 10-15, usually it is 17.5 to not even registering. There's no carbon build up on my rear bumper, no backfiring unless I ramp it up and then back off quickly, and even then it's quite rare. Nothing changed at all when the gauge started reading differently, surely if my car is actually running at above 14 at all times then it would drive differently?

[SargeRX8]

I just, got some heat through the o2 sensor. Didn't affect the reading. I checked the wiring and other shit and it looks fine. Didn't affect reading. I set the car on fire, didn't affect reading. I can't justify another $80 for another sensor. I don't try to tune the car anymore anyway so I guess ill live with it for now until I rip the gauge out and throw it at someone in road rage.

My fuel economy is absolutely disgusting if I let me turbo do some work. With nice average skyline driving and granny driving when ever I'm feeling lazy, I can get about 400km to the tank. I can get anywhere from 200 - 250 giving it a hard time.

Edited February 21, 2012 by SargeRX8

[89CAL]

Is it possible that something has actually happened and your AFR's are off? If you can try and borrow someone else's wideband and see if it reads different. using both at once doing.g a direct comparison would be best. tuning shop might even let you do it for nothing

Just in case there is actually an issue with the tune/car not the sensor

[SargeRX8]

Is it possible that something has actually happened and your AFR's are off? If you can try and borrow someone else's wideband and see if it reads different. using both at once doing.g a direct comparison would be best. tuning shop might even let you do it for nothing

Just in case there is actually an issue with the tune/car not the sensor

It could be, I'd have to get it on a dyno and I doubt anyone will do it free and I can't justify paying 90 for dyno time then finding out the sensor is f**ked and paying another 80 to replace it. Either way it's going to cost money. Sometimes I think my head unit is a f**king ATM for the car.

[Hanaldo]

When I drive on the street it doesn't make much difference to my fuel economy whether I give it some stick or drive it like a granny. I just don't spend enough time on boost on the street to actually use any fuel. On the track I get about 180-200kms to a tank though

[SargeRX8]

Hmm I don't think there is anything wrong with the sensor... I was watching my PFC hand controller and the timing on warm idle is abit bouncy, 15 - 17. It used to sit perfect on 15. Also the vacuum on idle has changed, the engine isn't sucking in as much as it was, I'm going to suspect there is a leak somewhere. Usually my boost controller(profec b spec2) reads -94 on warm idle. Now its reading around -88.