Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 93
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

If you can work out where the wiring goes & therefore what it is doing, it could be a legitimate mod, or one that you can easily reverse. In that case see if you can get the dealer to go back to the original offer to pay for the gearbox. Then you will have a spare to use or sell :whistling: .

I'd be hesitant having it sent to another workshop who may discover the switch, flick it off (or remove & bypass it) & say 'all fixed', without actually knowing what it does.

If it locked the stall converter you would stall at lights. It could perhaps unlock it but my money is on a rwd/awd switch. It seems to have been done locally too. I would be asking them to take it to Nissan and plug the consult3 in to retrieve the codes.

I have traced the wires from the switch.

Remember the trans runs fine when the switch is on and goes into limp mode a few times a day when the switch is off.

See pictures below of the wiring.

Obviously if I restore the wiring to factory the problem will be fixed.

If anyone has any information on the wiring and why anyone would want a switch to break this circuit id like to know.

Should I still get the transmission joint to look at it while its under warranty?

Cheers

Chris

post-72666-0-88618900-1332721057_thumb.jpg

post-72666-0-55287900-1332721068_thumb.jpg

post-72666-0-76894200-1332721095_thumb.jpg

post-72666-0-88101900-1332721106_thumb.jpg

SEL3, whatever that means, I cant see any info or what it does other than it goes back to the valve body. Perhaps its the 3rd gear selector switch or something?

I will delve further if you want but I would say its been done to get around a fault of some kind.

Thanks Scotty,

Thing is, with the switch closed the car runs fine.

With it open, it essentially cuts that pink wire.

I have removed the switch and now the pink wire is where it belongs in the trans ecu.

Interesting to see that the yellow wire has also been cut at some point and has already been put back together.

There is another hole drilled in the blank switch cover next to the switch that was in the pink wire.

I believe at some point there were two switches.

Perhaps some performance mod that was done in Japan and then only partially removed?

I'm going to take it to the transmission joint the dealer wants me to use tomorrow and see what they think.

While shes running fine its one thing but i know there are still metal filings in the bottom of the pan so a good flush and maybe even a trans cooler wouldn't hurt.

Scotty, if you can confirm why they may have been a switch in the 3rd gear selector or valve body, it could well be useful if i need to negotiate the repairs with the dealer.

Thanks

Chris

:thanks:

By the way of closing off this thread I will end by saying thanks to everyone for their input and add that i have now changed the + and - shift direction back to the way Nissan intended.

Some of you may cry out that I'm wrong but to be honest the Stagea is a stock standard daily and the V36 now only comes out when the sun is shining. I wanted the Stagea to have the same shift direction as the 370GT because I'm just used to it and don't want to have to think about it. Having said all that I only ever use the shift stick in the V when I'm bored with the paddles anyway!

It would seem that the auto transmission is fine now that I have put the transmission ecu wires back where they belong and removed the mysterious switch. I believe that back in Japan, someone had also put a switch into the yellow wire to lock the torque convertor manually perhaps in 3rd gear, and the remaining switch in SEL3 was the leftover remains of the thrill seekers experiment. There was after all evidence of a second switch from the hole left in the blank cover. Twice last week the 4WD warning light came on and reset by cycling the ignition. I haven't seen this fault or had to deal with transmission limp mode since removing the switch (or leaving it in the closed circuit position).

Going to the car dealers preferred mechanic on Monday to pull the pan off and look for any more metal flakes. Best I can hope for is that the dealer picks up the tab to flush the box and fill with Mattic J for peace of mind.

My next post will be of some pictures of the Stagea and the new head unit being fitted this Friday.

Cheers

Chris

Glad it is sorted Chris and hope the dealer pics up the tab.

btw, it's not you who is wrong (you are after all just used to the directions), it is Nissan that are wrong :P

It's quite obvious that Nissan are wrong after another performance company goes to the hassle of making up parts to change it!

http://usa.auto-style.jp/?pkey=item_info&i_code=MNS24123290001&

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks everyone for the replies and suggestions. Got the seats out (hoping I could find some existing grommets but no such luck). By tapping and measuring etc. I could figure out where I could drill through if needed. But first I borrowed an inspection camera and managed to go through factory holes in the chassis rail and could see that the captive nut was holding steady which is why it could retighten. So it was indeed a stripped section of thread, so I applied downforce by levering the bolt head with a screwdriver and went slowly back and forth until it came out. Camera helped a lot cos I could monitor that the captive nut was holding tight. Now I just have one very seized main subframe nut to tackle 😅
    • BOVs do have a purpose, if you ever log pressure before and after the throttle body, you will see a spike pre throttle on lift off from a WOT condition. Enough to bend throttle blades / damage e-throttle motors or simple assist in blowing off cooler pipes. FWIW, the above on really applies to those running at least 2 bar of boost. OP shouldn't have an issue, on the other hand, here are some videos of my shit box over a decade ago with some succulent dose with the airbox on and off. That shit box is unrecognisable these days 🫠    
    • I've tried all different combinations of BOVs/ no BOV and stock bypass valves over the years, on gear changes the stock bypass valve seems to get the car back on boost quicker because in part the turbos wheel speed isn't being slowed down by reversion, although they have issues holding boost much over the stock setting. Most aftermarket BOVs you can adjust the spring, tighter will make it open later and close sooner, but in my experience it'll cause a bit of flutter at low load/rpm anyway. I've also got some input into this whole no bov causing turbo wear, never had an issue on any on my turbos HOWEVER, I got my R33 GTST with 200k kms on it, with from what I can see still has the original turbo, no lateral shaft play but has about 4-5mm of play in and out which to me seems like a worn thrust bearing from years (100-150k kms?) of turbo flutter running no bov, so maybe there is some truth to it in the long run. But that'll never stop me loving the Stutututu while I have the car.   OP just wants to know if he can run a atmo vented BOV with no major issues and the answer is YES, plenty of people do it, there's no harm in installing it and seeing how it runs before spending $$$ on an aftermarket ecu, last time I bought a Nistune it was $2400 for install and a tune , unsure of todays prices but you get me. Crazy money to spend just to fix the minor inconvenience of stalling that can be overcome by letting the revs come down to near idle before putting the clutch in or a little bit of throttle to avoid it. You're better off leaving the ecu and tune for after a bigger turbo/injectors have been installed to take full advantage of the tune and get your moneys worth.   Let OP have his Whoosh sound without trying to break his bank haha
    • I see you missed the rest of the conversation where they have benefits, but nothing to do with avoiding breaking turbos, which is what the aftermarket BOV made all the fan boys, tuners, and modders believe was the only purpose for them...
    • But they do so for the other reasons to have a compressor bypass. It's in the name.
×
×
  • Create New...