Jump to content
SAU Community

5 Spped Auto + And -

ChrisB

By ChrisB,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 93
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

If you can work out where the wiring goes & therefore what it is doing, it could be a legitimate mod, or one that you can easily reverse. In that case see if you can get the dealer to go back to the original offer to pay for the gearbox. Then you will have a spare to use or sell :whistling: .

I'd be hesitant having it sent to another workshop who may discover the switch, flick it off (or remove & bypass it) & say 'all fixed', without actually knowing what it does.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

If it locked the stall converter you would stall at lights. It could perhaps unlock it but my money is on a rwd/awd switch. It seems to have been done locally too. I would be asking them to take it to Nissan and plug the consult3 in to retrieve the codes.

ChrisB Rising Star

ChrisB

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have traced the wires from the switch.

Remember the trans runs fine when the switch is on and goes into limp mode a few times a day when the switch is off.

See pictures below of the wiring.

Obviously if I restore the wiring to factory the problem will be fixed.

If anyone has any information on the wiring and why anyone would want a switch to break this circuit id like to know.

Should I still get the transmission joint to look at it while its under warranty?

Cheers

Chris

post-72666-0-88618900-1332721057_thumb.jpg

post-72666-0-55287900-1332721068_thumb.jpg

post-72666-0-76894200-1332721095_thumb.jpg

post-72666-0-88101900-1332721106_thumb.jpg

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

SEL3, whatever that means, I cant see any info or what it does other than it goes back to the valve body. Perhaps its the 3rd gear selector switch or something?

I will delve further if you want but I would say its been done to get around a fault of some kind.

ChrisB Rising Star

ChrisB

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks Scotty,

Thing is, with the switch closed the car runs fine.

With it open, it essentially cuts that pink wire.

I have removed the switch and now the pink wire is where it belongs in the trans ecu.

Interesting to see that the yellow wire has also been cut at some point and has already been put back together.

There is another hole drilled in the blank switch cover next to the switch that was in the pink wire.

I believe at some point there were two switches.

Perhaps some performance mod that was done in Japan and then only partially removed?

I'm going to take it to the transmission joint the dealer wants me to use tomorrow and see what they think.

While shes running fine its one thing but i know there are still metal filings in the bottom of the pan so a good flush and maybe even a trans cooler wouldn't hurt.

Scotty, if you can confirm why they may have been a switch in the 3rd gear selector or valve body, it could well be useful if i need to negotiate the repairs with the dealer.

Thanks

Chris

:thanks:

ChrisB Rising Star

ChrisB

Posted
  • Author
Posted

By the way of closing off this thread I will end by saying thanks to everyone for their input and add that i have now changed the + and - shift direction back to the way Nissan intended.

Some of you may cry out that I'm wrong but to be honest the Stagea is a stock standard daily and the V36 now only comes out when the sun is shining. I wanted the Stagea to have the same shift direction as the 370GT because I'm just used to it and don't want to have to think about it. Having said all that I only ever use the shift stick in the V when I'm bored with the paddles anyway!

It would seem that the auto transmission is fine now that I have put the transmission ecu wires back where they belong and removed the mysterious switch. I believe that back in Japan, someone had also put a switch into the yellow wire to lock the torque convertor manually perhaps in 3rd gear, and the remaining switch in SEL3 was the leftover remains of the thrill seekers experiment. There was after all evidence of a second switch from the hole left in the blank cover. Twice last week the 4WD warning light came on and reset by cycling the ignition. I haven't seen this fault or had to deal with transmission limp mode since removing the switch (or leaving it in the closed circuit position).

Going to the car dealers preferred mechanic on Monday to pull the pan off and look for any more metal flakes. Best I can hope for is that the dealer picks up the tab to flush the box and fill with Mattic J for peace of mind.

My next post will be of some pictures of the Stagea and the new head unit being fitted this Friday.

Cheers

Chris

Jetwreck Grand Master

Jetwreck

Posted
Posted

Glad it is sorted Chris and hope the dealer pics up the tab.

btw, it's not you who is wrong (you are after all just used to the directions), it is Nissan that are wrong :P

It's quite obvious that Nissan are wrong after another performance company goes to the hassle of making up parts to change it!

http://usa.auto-style.jp/?pkey=item_info&i_code=MNS24123290001&

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...