Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I've just bought an R31 coupe in japan and was wondering what you guys think i'll be looking at power-wise from the engine thats in her.

RB24DET (rb26 crank, rods and tomei pistons)

KKK K27 turbo

Trust high mount manifold and external gate

rb26 plenum and injectors

rb26 cooler

HKS FCON V

HKS EVC

thats about all i know, its garenteed to have lots more mods as i can see alot of things in the pics i got that wern't listed.

so what do ya think? am i looking at over 200rwkw here?

Cheers

Karlos

Yea i thought it looked like a monster turbo. hmm wonder how laggy it'll be?

well non complied i'll be getting it for around 10k but then i'm gunna have to get it through compliance. i'm hoping if i chuck the standard manifolds and turbo back on the 2.4 will still pass emissions at regency. should cost a couple thousand plus to get it complied because of all the shit i have to return to standard! :(

Racing Porches and Ruf Porches run K27 in single and twin forms, so should be a dood thing. Is it a Blitz or original KKK turbo?

If everything is in order i woudl expect power to be up around 280-320rwkws depending on some of the mods, and boost it runs. Just be sure its actually has the internals before you wind up the boost too high, its way too easy to claim all sorts of things with regards to stroker cranks and pistons, so a quick inspection woudlnt go astray before you start turning up the wick and showing the R33 and GTR crowds what an RB20 can muster...any pics?

ok i'll load some pics onto my webspace.

worth buying one what? a spare car? i thought about getting a front cut but hopefully i can lease an rb20det and the rest for a week just to get through regency for considerably less than buying a FC.

280rwkw?! shit sounds like i'll be looking at a ****in quick car!

yeah i noticed the 2nd fuel rail aswell, didnt notice the single throttle, hmmm i must contemplate this new discovery..

i wonder whether thats 12 GTR injectors or 6 RB26 and 6 RB20 injectors.

also notice the remote oil filter, oil cooler?

wish these japanese were more informative, i wonder what clutch its got? whats the gearbox gunna be like when my last box broke with only 170rwkws?!

oh and this is gunna be my daily driver! :headspin:

Looking at how close the inlet manifodl sites to the inner guard/strut, it looks as though they may have cut the std RB20manifold off after the injectors and rail mounts, then either welded a flange to bolt to the RB26 plenum, or cut off the flange on the RB26 plenum and welded it to the modded RB20 plenum.

Does anyone know where the injectors on an RB26 inlet setup are bolted, im guessing its after the 6 throttle bodies? Perhaps the 2nd row of injectors are acoomodate dby welded sockets in the plenum, rather then using the STD GTR rail and mount, which actually the 2nd rail looks liek they use hose tails so may not be std GTR Injectors.... be fun to play PI when the car arrives

Hmm, wonder why they've used 12 injectors anyways? why not just go 6x GTR ones and use the entire rb26 inlet plenum/throttles? gtr injectors are large enough arnt they?

looks like i may need to change the whole motor over to get it through regency, not just swap int/ex manifolds and turbo. i doubt the 2.4 would pass emissions with all standard gear (inc ecu/loom) chucked on.

0HR30t the interior is in awsome nick, looks brand new, tons of aftermarket gauges etc too, just no stereo.

a few r32's came in with similar mods they were pretty good my suggestion is wait till it gets heere and talkto the compliance engineer first. I think the lease of a complete motor might be a better ideaor else you might upset the balance and set up of the old one) and itwill be alot easier alot easier to unbolt and bolt in.

hope for 250 rwkw and be very happy if you get more the car will be laggy even with the 2.4 kit but should rev very well and very high. enjoy

meggala

I think if lag is a problem i'll swap the turbo for something smaller, mabye a 2835r or the like. trouble is if i do that then i'll have to get the ECU retuned or change it altogether. anyone in adelaide that knows the Fcon's?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...