Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My definition of Side stepping is;

- Hold the clutch pedal down

- Bring engine to desired RPM

- Move your foot sideways off the clutch ("sidestep") and let the clutch spring take over

All it does is let any little slackness close and let the whole drivetrain lean on the clutch so when you pop it you don't have the little tollerences bang closed. The clutch won't do anything harmfull in comparison to the actual clutch drop

can someone please explain side stepping?

i got a 1.89 60ft by dropping the clutch at 7k with wheel spin all of first on the limiter lol. ran a 12.1

got 315 rwkw with 255/35/18 profile tyre. kept pressure at 36 because it was still bogging down at 6500 rpm .

with my setup how would use do it?

What brand tyres where they cheapies or actual quality?

Reason i ask is my mate cracked a 12.3 on a 34R with nothing but 1.2bar boost on the stock ceramics and a full exhaust with Bridgestone RE01's (still running std injectors, fuel pump, ecu). It was only about 255awkw from memory too.

So is launching the car in 2nd the way to go? Or is that only if you have a certain amount of power at the wheels. Ive got just over 280 awkw so would it be best in first or second?

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

www.youtube.com/watch?v=l_eR-39CK9Y&sns=em

Hey Xklaba u remember me beating u a few years ago in my old GTR?

Man i suck at Embedding vids with my phone. Have to copy to address bar

yeah I remember, and that smoke was number 2 piston going bye bye, I had run 11.36 before that and I have sence run 11.13 with only 293rwkw and stock turbos :P

hand brake is the best way IF you have a good clutch, other wise no hand brake dial in 7000-7500 and just find friction piont then ride out works for me

second gear launchs in standed ratio 34 or 32 and 33 with 4.33 diff ratios other wise use first and short shift to second

  • 2 months later...

^^ how i launched afew weeks back, although only took it to 6800rpm to launch, finding the friction point then riding out gets best traction and 60ft times too

gonna try 7000-7500rpm next time and see what difference it makes

what sort of tyre pressures did you run XKLABA ?

street tyres ( 265/35/18) I run 30 psi, you need the pressure to keep the centre of the tyre flat on the ground with even pressure across the tread and since the side walls of low profile tyres don't twist/flex there is no advantage to lowering the pressures, all it does is make the side walls take the weight and reduce the grip in the middle of the tyre

Drag tyres, ( 255/50/16 Toyo TQs ) 18-20psi, opposite of the street tyre reasoning

bahaha, standard ratio R33 GTR, use first and short shift into second, even with stock turbos that get 19psi by 2800rpm it's hard to keep it on boost on a second gear launch, so much so I don't even try it anymore and I reeeaaally hate clutchs

best last night for me was 11.3sec again, but this time with a 127.5mph....7500rpm clutch slip seemed to work good and not bog down....traction was abit of an issue though :/

going drags is getting addictive

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
×
×
  • Create New...