Jump to content
SAU Community

Garrett 2871 In Rb25 Housing

Luke HCR32

By Luke HCR32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Luke HCR32 Collaborator

Luke HCR32

Posted
Posted

Need to do a turbo swap on the RB20 in my 92 R32 Gts-t pretty soon as the amount of oil it is leaking into the intake is becoming unmanagable.

I wasn't planning on doing a real serious upgrade this soon but I have a few dollars to throw at it and figured I may as well push for a 180-200 rwkw build as I'm starting to grow out of the current engine performance and have now gone through 2 stock turbos.

The car was recently dynoed at 143.5 rwkw @ 11 psi with a turbotech controller, bosch 040, front mount, 3 inch exhaust and coil packs on stock turbo and stock dump.

The car will be getting mainly street use for at least the next year so I don't want anything too violent on boost and would also like the setup to be as resoponsive as possible, I would like the potential to go to 200-220 rwkw for track use in the future.

I'm prepared to do injectors, AFM, split dump and a nistune computer at the same time.

Went to adelaide turbo services recently and they recommended the 2871 in rb25 housing for response and 180-220 rwkw power range, does anyone have any experience, thoughts or opinions on such a turbo and the required support modifications?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/393044-garrett-2871-in-rb25-housing/
Share on other sites
AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
Posted

Need to do a turbo swap on the RB20 in my 92 R32 Gts-t pretty soon as the amount of oil it is leaking into the intake is becoming unmanagable.

I wasn't planning on doing a real serious upgrade this soon but I have a few dollars to throw at it and figured I may as well push for a 180-200 rwkw build as I'm starting to grow out of the current engine performance and have now gone through 2 stock turbos.

The car was recently dynoed at 143.5 rwkw @ 11 psi with a turbotech controller, bosch 040, front mount, 3 inch exhaust and coil packs on stock turbo and stock dump.

The car will be getting mainly street use for at least the next year so I don't want anything too violent on boost and would also like the setup to be as resoponsive as possible, I would like the potential to go to 200-220 rwkw for track use in the future.

I'm prepared to do injectors, AFM, split dump and a nistune computer at the same time.

Went to adelaide turbo services recently and they recommended the 2871 in rb25 housing for response and 180-220 rwkw power range, does anyone have any experience, thoughts or opinions on such a turbo and the required support modifications?

I used to have 2871 highflowed into stock housings on my r33, it was very responsive on a RB25, it would be pulling hard on 2500rpm, so i guess on an rb20 it might be quite good, made 214kw on 17psi ( 56trim )

Might be a good idea to go for the r34housing cause you'll want more power later on.

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

My opinion is that you need to get some boost in reasonably early if you want it to pull hard without revving to the moon . I believe its more about torque than Kws but thats me . Don't write off the GT2860R units like GT2860RSs and "GT2530" turbos . The 2530 can be an easy way to get a direct fit HKS turbine housing which also works with the GT2871R cartridges - same turbine wheel .

The thing is that you need a turbine housing sized to make the turbo boost where YOU want it to in the engines rev range but often that makes the compressor end want to surege - ifs its early which is good . The fix for that is port shrouded compressor housings and the nous not to go too big in compressor trim size . The HKS GTRS (GT2871R 52T) is a good example to look at because they used a direct fit 0.64 AR turbine housing and a port shrouded compressor housing . From memory HKS also did a KAI version of the GT2530 and I think the difference is the port shrouded compressor housing . Ported comp housings are good things but they are only designed to work with one size and trim of compressor wheel - its about placing the surge slot at the right height to suit the wheels splitter (lower height) blades leading edges .

Anyhow your call , I'd be conservative because I'd prefer have the use of the turbo most of the time rather than occassionally .

A .

Dale FZ1 Veteran

Dale FZ1

Posted
Posted

I ran the smallest 48 trim GT2871 cartridge with stock housings on an RB25. Excellent response, and best result was 225kW on 12.5psi. No boost control issues. No surge issues.

I did feel that the bigger OP6 turbine housing would have been a worthwhile improvement on top end flow. A HKS turbine housing with RB spec flange would be the best match, if one could be sourced for the right price. Hypergear's housings would be a good next-best option, and brand new. Personally, I would just have Stao machine up a compressor housing too and make up the whole unit.

Should be a great turbo to match up with a RB20.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • albyz34gt
      R34 N/a And R34 Turbo (gtt) Transmission.. Uh, Problem.

      By albyz34gt · Posted

      @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • RB25inside
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By RB25inside · Posted

      Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • GTSBoy
      ECU sees many times the speed than speedo does (R34 swap)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
×
×
  • Create New...