Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a 2002 V35 gt8 with a fried BCM, when ignition on no headlights or wipers, when ignition off and car locked wipers working and headlight flickering.

Have obtained a new BCM from Nissan but after booking in to get it fitted (waiting a week), and a couple of hours in their service bay to be told that "we can't program it".rant.gif

Contacted another Nissan dealership to be told "We dont do a lot of imports and were not setup to do that sort of thing"

My question is, has anyone had to program one, if you were successful, who and where?cheers.gif

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/393601-v35-bcm/
Share on other sites

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Sedan/2003/bcs.pdf

FSM for a 2003 G35 Sedan- Body Control systems

I know its not your car, but might help somewhat... I hate that reply from Stealerships. Couldn't see anything in there that states that it has to be programmed. Chris Rogers would be the person to go to for info. Seems to be the Guru for Nissan electrical eccentricities.

Hope it gets sorted!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/393601-v35-bcm/#findComment-6260269
Share on other sites

Ahh- did see something- right at the end.

When replacing BCM perform initialization of NATS system and registration of all NATS ignition key IDs.

Thats the Nissan Anti theft system (NATS), and your key fobs. Should be an easy thing to do through Consult. Tell them exactly what you want at the dealership- then watch them embarrass themselves. They might get it right too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/393601-v35-bcm/#findComment-6260278
Share on other sites

They don't want to listen to what I say, they know best, thats why the have that logo out the front, which also matches the one on their shirt.

I have already embarrassed the service manager there already when I took my car down their to get the consult put on it to test the BCM. He didn't want to do it saying that "I don't want to hook it up for half an hour and have to charge you $50 and have no result"

He eventually conceded and hooked it up, when returning the car to me with the printout, showing a fault in the ABS that cleared straight away and one in the TCU which wouldn't clear, I asked how much, he replied "don't worry about it" choking on humble piesick.gif.

Fault with TCU was a brake switch fault. Nissan response "we don't know where that is, on the outside, on the inside, we have no manual"

Contacted CVT.CO.NZ and the first line that I got back in response was "They don't know what the are doing", there is no brake switch on the gearbox.whistling.gif

This is the kind of "expertise" I have to deal with when I go near the place, they get upset when you tell them they are wrong, bitch up when you prove that they are wrong, then they bullsh*t you till you walk away holding your head, IN PAIN.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/393601-v35-bcm/#findComment-6260791
Share on other sites

What Nissan dealer did u goto?

They don't want to listen to what I say, they know best, thats why the have that logo out the front, which also matches the one on their shirt.

I have already embarrassed the service manager there already when I took my car down their to get the consult put on it to test the BCM. He didn't want to do it saying that "I don't want to hook it up for half an hour and have to charge you $50 and have no result"

He eventually conceded and hooked it up, when returning the car to me with the printout, showing a fault in the ABS that cleared straight away and one in the TCU which wouldn't clear, I asked how much, he replied "don't worry about it" choking on humble piesick.gif.

Fault with TCU was a brake switch fault. Nissan response "we don't know where that is, on the outside, on the inside, we have no manual"

Contacted CVT.CO.NZ and the first line that I got back in response was "They don't know what the are doing", there is no brake switch on the gearbox.whistling.gif

This is the kind of "expertise" I have to deal with when I go near the place, they get upset when you tell them they are wrong, bitch up when you prove that they are wrong, then they bullsh*t you till you walk away holding your head, IN PAIN.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/393601-v35-bcm/#findComment-6261203
Share on other sites

whilst I have a scan tool that can read these cars and program keys to them the main point of it is the immobiliser codes.

if you do not have those then you are wasting your money. you need to see someone with a C2, C3, carmen scan OR a launch X431 full size unit. all of them will recode the car but with out the imobiliser code you are pretty much screwed. nissan are the only ones that can do that. sending an email to nissan japan is OUT as they will refer it back to nissan oz. FTG nissan would be my pick of the dealers. they do GTR and seemed quite helpful when I took imports there for key work.

start there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/393601-v35-bcm/#findComment-6261387
Share on other sites

http://www.nicoclub....an/2003/bcs.pdf

FSM for a 2003 G35 Sedan- Body Control systems

I know its not your car, but might help somewhat... I hate that reply from Stealerships. Couldn't see anything in there that states that it has to be programmed. Chris Rogers would be the person to go to for info. Seems to be the Guru for Nissan electrical eccentricities.

Hope it gets sorted!

that is 'close' but not the same as the keys are different and they run an external calsonic remote fob.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/393601-v35-bcm/#findComment-6261393
Share on other sites

whilst I have a scan tool that can read these cars and program keys to them the main point of it is the immobiliser codes.

if you do not have those then you are wasting your money. you need to see someone with a C2, C3, carmen scan OR a launch X431 full size unit. all of them will recode the car but with out the imobiliser code you are pretty much screwed. nissan are the only ones that can do that.

So the Consult units will allow for a recode but only with an immobiliser code as well. I'm guessing what makes Nissan capable of performing it regardless is the fact that they have the immobiliser security card which does not require the original codes to allow for this. Would I be right in saying that?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/393601-v35-bcm/#findComment-6263541
Share on other sites

So the Consult units will allow for a recode but only with an immobiliser code as well.

Correct.

I'm guessing what makes Nissan capable of performing it regardless is the fact that they have a way to derive immobiliser security card which does not require the original codes to allow for this. Would I be right in saying that?

corrected for future reading.

nissan can look up ( and they have done so for me.) the codes but they NEED the car to look it up.

finding a dealership to help isnt too bad BUT if you come across like a d1ck telling them you know everything about your car (and they know nothing ) then expect to be blown off.

not saying thats what the OP did but it does happen.

I seem to remember a key code program floating about that did the calc off a checksum. may be worth having a dig on this forum for it under spare keys.

you will STILL need a C2/C3 to do it. my diagun will program certain aspects of it but a C2/C3 is a FAR better option.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/393601-v35-bcm/#findComment-6263817
Share on other sites

I see. I was preparing myself for the worst, thinking perhaps the Fly Company in China with their Consult 4 unit and security cards would be the failsafe for me in case if I didn't get any co-operation out of my local dealers. I did get a tiny little metal tag attached to my transponder key which has 5 digits stamped into it. After doing some reading up on NATS and the various incarnations of it, I think that could be my immobiliser code so I'm glad I made a point of keeping everything that came with my V36 recently in a safe place.

Thanks for the prompt response, as always!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/393601-v35-bcm/#findComment-6264150
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...